Farm-to-table

Farm-to-table is a movement that emphasizes the use of locally sourced ingredients. It arose in the United States as a rejection of mass-produced and processed foods that could survive long shipping distances. Advocates believed that procuring food should be a local concern, and ideally, individuals should consume what is grown or raised within about fifty miles of where they live or work, as was common at the start of the twentieth century. Eating locally requires that food be consumed during its local growing season, or preserved for future consumption.

The farm-to-table movement, also known as the locavore movement, gained attention when some influential restaurants created menus that focused on the food from local farms. The movement primarily began in cities regarded as progressive, including Berkeley, California; Boulder, Colorado; and Seattle, Washington. In time, the movement caught on with a larger segment of the population. Farm-to-table helped inspire individuals to scrutinize their food choices and spurred a demand for organic and natural foods across the country.

Background

American food production changed significantly during the twentieth century. The nation moved increasingly away from an agricultural tradition as more people lived in cities. Many family farms were plowed under for development. Supermarkets replaced many farmers' stands as food sources for shoppers.

Widespread transportation systems allowed trucks, trains, and planes to move food from warm Southern regions—including the states of California and Florida, as well as Mexico and other countries south of the United States—to northern areas. This permitted markets to sell produce out of season in many regions.

Americans' more urban lifestyle left many people with less time to cook. Many companies developed processed foods that were not only more convenient for time-pressed consumers, but were also better able to withstand long shipping distances. Some people began to reject this processed food during the 1960s and 1970s. The back-to-nature movement inspired many people to produce local, natural, organic foods. Others began paying attention to the source of their foods, and deliberately chose to shop local.

Many foods that are shipped long distances to consumers are harvested before they are fully ripe. In many cases, the foods ripen during transportation or when they reach their destination. Many varieties of foods, such as tomatoes, have been bred to be sturdy during transportation, be attractive, and have a long shelf life. In many cases, these traits have been emphasized at the expense of flavor. Locally sourced produce can be grown for flavor and other qualities rather than for the sturdiness needed to ship it hundreds or thousands of miles.

Several restaurateurs were influential in the birth and growth of the farm-to-table movement. Alice Waters discovered the delights of locally sourced foods during the 1960s on a trip to France. She returned to the United States and opened a bistro in Berkeley, California, in 1971. She hired chefs who used fresh produce and meats from local farms. Waters developed relationships with local organic farmers for her business, Chez Panisse. The restaurant became known for using foods at the peak of ripeness and freshness, and became a blueprint for other farm-to-table establishments.

Overview

According to a Congressional Research Service report, locally sourced food sales account for between $4 billion and $12 billion in the United States each year. This is the work of 8 percent of American farms, representing primarily small farm businesses that gross less than $75,000 annually. The businesses include community gardens, farmers' markets, food cooperatives, mobile slaughter units, pick-your-own operations, and farm-to-school programs, which source school lunch program foods from local businesses.

The US government does not define local, although it generally means the product is transported less than four hundred miles from origin to destination. Two federal laws define local food as food sold within the state in which it has been produced. The European Union also does not define local, but acknowledges that it is generally understood to mean the food has been produced between 12 and 62 miles (20 and 100 kilometers) from where it is sold.

A number of US government programs and farm bills support local food production, and such support has increased due to greater interest. Such support began increasing during the 1990s primarily to aid farmers, rather than as a consumer issue. The US Department of Agriculture supported local food systems with more than $13 million in grants in 2018.

Farm-to-table advocates believe processed foods—which are often high in fat, sodium, and sugar—can lead to health problems, including heart disease and hypertension. For this reason, they support simply prepared, locally sourced food. While procuring locally sourced food was often expensive during the early years of the movement, increasing demand has helped to bring down prices in the twenty-first century. This is true for both consumers who are buying foods to prepare at home and for restaurants that cater to customers who are concerned about healthy eating and earth-friendly farming practices.

The farm-to-table movement is also fueled by environmental concerns. Transporting food long distances requires fuel consumption, which often increases carbon emissions. Locavores care about not only the distance, but also the means of transportation. Trains are more efficient than trucks because they produce fewer greenhouse gases, for example.

A number of restaurants source animal products locally for the flavor of the food, including eggs, meat, and poultry, but also because the chefs believe the animals receive better care. Many farm-to-table fans object to industrial farming operations. They believe local family farms provide better care for animals raised for food, and raise them in more humane conditions. They prefer meat from animals raised in conditions described as free range and pasture raised, and many consumers are willing to pay more for these products.

Waters has continued to be a force within the movement. She created the Chez Panisse Foundation, which developed a project to help students grow food at their schools, during the 1990s. The Edible Schoolyard Project provides a curriculum that teaches children about growing foods as well as healthy eating. It also aims to help children in schools from both a nutrition and economic perspective by aiding schools in providing their own fresh food. Some schools, meanwhile, have partnered with local farms to provide fresh fruit and vegetables to students. In 2018 it was estimated that about 1,200 US school districts had such a program.

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