Sustainable fashion

Sustainable fashion, also called "eco-fashion," is a design philosophy based on the idea of creating clothing that causes less damage to the environment. Although some shoppers will purchase so-called green fashions, which are typically more expensive, other consumers will not spend extra money to purchase eco-friendly clothing. Many fashion designers have embraced this growing philosophy and are striving to produce clothing that does not put a strain on Earth's resources.

What Does Sustainable Mean?

Something that is "sustainable" is made in a way that does not destroy the environment. Sustainable fashion is made from materials that do not cause harm to Earth, using processes that do not put a strain on the planet's natural resources. This philosophy can also be extended to the people who make clothing. Companies that make sustainable fashions not only do so in a way to preserve the planet, but also in a way that benefits and protects workers and promotes ethical consumerism. This means they make clothing using natural materials and dyes at factories that conserve resources such as water and energy and treat their employees ethically.

History

While the sustainable fashion philosophy did not become widespread until the twentieth century, people have been making clothing from natural materials for millennia. People in ancient times used animals for food and used many inedible parts such as the hides and fur to make clothing. They used grasses, trees, and other plant materials to make fibers that could be sewn into clothing. Indigenous people used every part of the resources they took from Earth, repurposing materials to avoid waste. They cut strips from the skins and hides of animals, sewed together different materials, and made babiche (cords or laces) from plants or animals. When clothing wore out, they used the pieces to construct new clothes.

During the Middle Ages, people used silk-like nettle fibers. They also pieced together clothing from old bits or used scrap materials over torn clothes. People around the world made homespun fabrics for items such as skirts, saris, kimonos, and other garments that could be made using whole pieces of uncut cloth.

Nineteenth Century

Early in the nineteenth century, manufacturers legally used child labor and sweatshops to produce textiles. Many people began to speak out against these unjust practices, however, and some opposed turning animal furs into fashion.

The Industrial Revolution (ca. 1760–1840) gave rise to numerous textile factories. These factories were able to churn out clothing to meet the growing demand. They used chemicals and toxic dyes to produce fabrics and the factories released harmful contaminants into the air, soil, and water.

Also during this time, feathers became fashionable and were in great demand for hats and other accessories throughout Great Britain, Russia, and North America. This prompted the United States to enact the Lacey Act in 1900, which protected birds from being plumaged for their feathers. However, it also created a rise in trafficking different bird species from other countries and illegal feather smuggling.

Twentieth Century

After World War II (1939–45), shopping centers became commonplace throughout the United States. More people began to shop as a pastime. Many goods were mass-produced in the United States. Malls popped up throughout the country, which helped to encourage mass consumption of clothing and other products. However, the 1960s and 1970s brought political and social movements sparked by the Vietnam War. People began to realize the impact humans were having on Earth, and thus the modern environmental movement was born.

Many consumers called for environment-friendly business practices in industries including clothing manufacturers. Fashion designers heeded these calls; some produced minimalist clothing designs or used scrap pieces to avoid waste. Others used recycled materials to make clothing, such as swimsuits fashioned from plastic bags. Designers touted eco-friendly practices and produced products made of natural, renewable materials such as bamboo, hemp, ramie, and undyed cottons.

Designers continued to produce clothing made from recycled or repurposed materials into the 1990s. Clothing and accessories made from a variety of recycled materials such as plastic water bottles and tires became fashionable.

Late in the twentieth century, many American textile companies moved abroad where operating and labor costs typically were lower, and they faced less environmental regulation. Corporations opened plants in countries such as Cambodia and Vietnam, which had no age and wage minimums or maximum work-hour requirements. Consumers began to note these practices, and companies such as footwear giant Nike faced backlash and boycotts over the conditions of their overseas factories. (Nike has since repaired its image to become one of the most sustainable apparel companies in the world.)

Twenty-First Century

One way companies competed with one another in the 2000s was by touting responsible business practices, which further boosted the idea of sustainability. By offering eco-friendly products made in a way that had little impact on the environment, they hoped consumers would choose to purchase their products. More sustainable companies began to emerge, such as vegan shoemaker Mink and outdoor clothing company Patagonia. In addition, established companies, including Levi's, Gucci, and Calvin Klein, launched campaigns to promote their green products and raise environmental awareness. The idea of fair-trade goods, which were produced by workers who were treated well and fairly compensated, gained traction in the United States and other countries. Many of these goods were made of renewable resources such as jute, palm fiber, tagua nuts, and wool.

Companies continued to use sustainable fibers and recyclable materials, while reducing chemicals, resources, and product packaging, into the second and third decades of the twenty-first century. However, reports increasingly showed that many of the fashion industry's attempts to reduce its environmental impact had failed by the 2020s and that the majority of items were produced using non-biodegradable petroleum-based synthetics that ultimately ended up in landfills. Indeed, reports indicated that less than 1 percent of all clothing is recycled into new garments. Further, many eco-friendly designers faced stiff competition from so-called "fast fashion" companies that sold cheaply made products at very low prices. Designers found that many people—especially a population with a throwaway mentality—made clothing choices based on style and price rather than ethical considerations, and that many consumers were not willing to spend extra money on sustainable fashion. Thus, it has become increasingly difficult for sustainable fashion brands to keep up with fast fashion companies like Zara and H&M, which frequently put out two dozen new clothing collections each year, constantly luring customers back to their stores and websites.

Critics have called for stronger government intervention to combat such challenges and to hold companies accountable for their environmental impact. For instance, proposals were made for lawmakers to impose taxes on carbon and water to discourage their use and increase renewable energy initiatives. Legislation could also be passed that forces fashion companies to reduce carbon emissions and imposes fines when companies fall short of sustainability goals. In states such as New York and California, such legislation had already been proposed by 2024. Others believe the fashion industry needs to independently adopt more radical changes to achieve greater results. The United Nations Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action is one initiative that has helped companies increase commitments to renewable energy. By 2022, over 40 percent of clothing brands had signed on to achieve the goal of using 100 percent renewable energy by the year 2030.

Bibliography

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