Asunción, Paraguay

Asunción is the capital of Paraguay as well as its political, economic, and cultural hub. Sometimes called the "Mother of Cities," Asunción served historically as a staging area for Spanish colonial explorers. Asunción's history has been marked by political and socioeconomic turmoil. In the twenty-first century, the capital has embarked on a campaign to recreate its image as a city with a rich historical heritage and an inviting climate.

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Landscape

Asunción is situated at on the eastern bank of the Paraguay River. The capital's strategic location on a system of waterways that makes shipping possible from the port of Asunción to the Atlantic Ocean some 1,600 kilometers (994 miles) downstream has historically provided a vital outlet for the landlocked Paraguay.

Asunción's greater metropolitan area is known as Gran Asunción. Incorporating the capital as well as eleven small nearby cities, including Capiatá, Luque, and San Lorenzo, among others, it sprawls over 1,014 square kilometers (392 square miles). The city proper covers 117 square kilometers (45 square miles), including the historic core, known as La Chacarita, which is located on a high bluff to protect it from the flooding that periodically afflicts low-lying areas along the Río Paraguay.

Asunción is laid out in the grid pattern typical of cities of Spanish colonial origin. Many of the original colonial structures, however, were destroyed during modernization efforts dating back to the early 1800s. The Spanish influence is reflected in the city's tree-lined avenues and large public squares, as well as in common architectural flourishes such as balconies, patios, and red-tiled rooftops.

Asunción's elite tend to concentrate in the suburbs around the Avenida San Martín. The wealth of this small tier of society stands in sharp contrast to deprivations of Asunción's poorest residents, many of whom live in flood-prone riverside shantytowns.

Asunción features a subtropical climate, characterized by mild conditions. The summer months of October through March, however, can be blisteringly hot. In January, average temperatures range from a high of 34 degrees Celsius (94 degrees Fahrenheit) to an average low of 23 degrees Celsius (73 degrees Fahrenheit). The winters are mild, with average temperatures in July ranging from a high of 24 degrees Celsius (76 degrees Fahrenheit) to an average low of 13 degrees Celsius (55 degrees Fahrenheit).

The city has been affected by climate change. Higher summer temperatures have caused heat waves. Heavy rain has overtasked the water drainage system and raised the level of the Paraguay River.

People

The Gran Asunción metropolitan area was home to about 3.452 million people in 2022—more than 45 percent of Paraguay's total population, which was estimated at 7.44 million as of 2023. The city proper is home to an estimated population of some 3.51 million (2023). The majority of the capital's inhabitants are of mestizo origin, with mixed indigenous (Guaraní) and Spanish ancestry. The city has also historically attracted immigrants from Lebanon, Japan, South Korean, China, Russia, and Mexico. A majority of the population is Roman Catholic, but there is a small Protestant minority, which is primarily composed of Mennonites.

The interplay of Spanish and Guaraní cultures dates to the earliest days of the Asunción's founding. More than 90 percent of the Paraguayan population—and more than 75 percent of Asunción's residents—speak both Spanish and Guaraní, and both enjoy official language status.

Guaraní is one of the few indigenous American languages that does not face the threat of imminent extinction. Many Asunción residents consider their knowledge of Guaraní a point of cultural pride. The capital's residents sometimes blend Guaraní and Spanish together within a conversation or even within a single sentence, in a mixed dialect called Jopará.

Economy

Asunción is Paraguay's industrial, commercial, and financial hub. The capital's manufacturing sector turns out footwear, leather goods, cotton textiles, tobacco products, and wood products. These goods, as well as most of the agricultural exports that form the backbone of Paraguay's economy (cotton, soybeans, seeds, timber, and meat products), pass through two large ports, one of which is located in Asunción.

Most of the food crops and livestock raised in Paraguay are processed in small factories in Asunción. Facilities for the processing of sugar, corn, fruit, vegetable oils, and beef products provide a number of jobs in the capital. The services sector and the government are also significant employers.

Paraguay's economy grew rapidly between 2003 and 2008 due to rising global demand for agricultural commodities. However, Paraguay was rocked by the 2008 global financial crisis and a series of droughts that significantly reduced the number of agricultural exports. The government introduced fiscal and monetary stimulus packages to revitalize the economy, and strong export growth has since fueled the recovery, but long-term economic growth has been limited by political uncertainty, corruption, and deficient infrastructure.

Landmarks

Most of Asunción's colonial-era structures have been lost to modernization efforts. However, a small historic core remains and Asunción features a number of significant landmarks.

Asunción's religious architecture reflects the city's Spanish colonial heritage. The gleaming white Metropolitan Cathedral, originally built in 1687 and then rebuilt in the mid-nineteenth century, is famed for its silver-gilded altar. The hilltop Iglesia de la Encarnación (Church of the Incarnation), reconstructed following an 1889 fire, features a triple nave decorated with sacred art. The Iglesia de la Recoleta (Recoleta Church) is adjacent to Paraguay's national cemetery, which is filled with ornate tombs.

Asunción is home to numerous notable government buildings and historic monuments. These include the Palacio de los López, the nation's executive residence, and the Casa Viola, an early colonial building renovated in 1992 by the Spanish government to commemorate Christopher Columbus's voyage to the New World five centuries earlier.

The Casa de la Independencia is Asunción's most outstanding surviving example of Spanish colonial architecture. Built in 1772, it marks the spot where Paraguayan freedom fighters secretly plotted their rebellion against Spanish authorities and proclaimed their country's independence in 1811. Many of those patriots are buried in the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes (National Pantheon of the Heroes), famous for its pink-domed roof. The Panteón's mausoleum was constructed in 1863 to emulate Paris's Les Invalides, the world-famous complex commemorating French military history.

Asunción has a number of renowned museums, including the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes de Asunción (National Museum of Fine Arts of Asunción), which was founded by Juan Silvano Godoi. The Museo Nacional features both international masterpieces and Paraguayan paintings and sculptures, some of which date to the colonial era. The collections of maps, art, and artifacts in the Museo Memoria de la Ciudad (Museum of the Memory of the City), housed in the historic Casa Viola, document Asunción's urban development over several centuries. The Museo Etnográfico Andrés Barbero (Andrés Barbero Ethnographic Museum) showcases Guaraní history and culture through its collections of traditional ceramic crafts, weapons, and musical instruments. The Natural History Museum is located on the grounds of the Jardín Botánico y Zoológico de Asunción (Botanical Garden and Zoo of Asunción).

History

Asunción was formally established in 1537 on the day of the Feast of the Assumption, a Catholic celebration commemorating the death of Mary, and the settlement's Spanish founders named the city in honor of that event. Thanks to its strategic location amid a system of rivers leading to the South American interior and the Atlantic coast, Asunción quickly developed into the key trading outpost of the Río de la Plata area.

Asunción also became the base of a Jesuit missionary campaign to convert the Guaraní people to Christianity. The success of the Jesuits' efforts resulted early on in a blending of the Spanish and Guaraní populations and cultures through marriage. This set the stage for Asunción's evolution into a society primarily composed of mestizo peoples by the nineteenth century.

In 1731, local rebels, chafing at nearly two centuries of Spanish colonial domination, made Asunción the site of the one of South America's first significant uprisings against Spanish imperial rule. Asunción remained under the thumb of the Spanish until 1811, when Paraguay declared its independence. At that time, Asunción officially became the capital of the new nation.

Within a few decades, however, Asunción found itself once again in the grip of a foreign power. In the course of the Paraguayan War (1865–70), also known as the War of the Triple Alliance, which pitted Paraguay against Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil, Asunción was captured by Brazilian troops and occupied for seven years.

Asunción's history has been shaped by a succession of corrupt dictatorships that left the capital largely neglected, isolated, and impoverished. During Paraguay's thirty-five years of harsh dictatorship under General Alfredo Stroessner, Asunción suffered an exodus of many of its best-educated citizens, most of whom fled to neighboring Argentina. In 1989, Stroessner was deposed in coup, and a democratic presidential election was held in 1993. Since then, Paraguay has undertaken a process of democratic and economic development, but coups, corruption, and government instability have undermined progress in this area.

By Beverly Ballaro

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