Freetown, Sierra Leone

Freetown is the capital of Sierra Leone, a country located in West Africa. Founded in 1792 by ex-slaves and British abolitionists, Freetown became a symbol of hope and enlightenment during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Capital of an independent country since 1961, the city weathered a brutal civil war in the 1990s and a series of natural disasters in the twenty-first century. Nonetheless, it remains a thriving port city of more than a million people.

94740330-21991.jpg94740330-21992.jpg

Considered the Athens of West Africa during the second half of the nineteenth century, Freetown is home to Fourah Bay College, the oldest institution of higher learning in sub-Sahara Africa. As the capital city of Sierra Leone, it is also home to government facilities, cultural centers, and a diverse population.

Throughout its history, Freetown has largely prospered from its expansive harbor and the country's rich mineral resources, while its beautiful beaches and modern resorts have attracted thousands of tourists. When Sierra Leone gained independence from Great Britain in 1961, however, Freetown became caught in the crossfire of political corruption, culminating in a devastating civil war in the 1990s that nearly destroyed the entire country.

Landscape

Freetown is situated on a peninsula and divided into three sections: eastern, central, and western. The eastern segment is largely residential and is located closest to the harbor. The central region includes government facilities, hotels, and various churches. The western segment is similar in makeup to its eastern counterpart and contains a stadium, a prison, administrative offices, and Fourah Bay College, which is part of present-day University of Sierra Leone. As the educational center of the country, Freetown is also home to Njala University College and the College of Medical and Allied Health Sciences. Commercial industry exists throughout the city.

Nearby suburbs and hill villages, including Aberdeen, Kent, Regent, Bathurst, Leicester, and Gloucester, reflect African, Creole, and British influences in place names, architecture, and even transportation. Double-decker buses, for instance, frequent the roads, and some housing styles mimic those popular in the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, and the Caribbean from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

Freetown sits 25.6 meters (84 feet) above sea level on a sloping landscape on the southern bank of the Sierra Leone River estuary. The western portion of the city is bordered by forested hills, some of which rise as high as 900 meters (2,700 feet). Freetown harbor, which marks the city's eastern border, is the third-largest natural harbor in the world and is fed in part by the Rokel and Sierra Leone rivers.

The tropical climate in Freetown is divided into two seasons: dry and wet. The dry season begins in mid-November and runs to April. During this time, a hot desert wind known as the Harmattan coats the city in dust. The monsoon season brings welcomed moisture between April and October, with rainfall estimates totaling more than 381 centimeters (150 inches). The average temperature in Freetown is about 26 degrees Celsius (78 degrees Fahrenheit).

Unsafe water conditions plague a significant portion of Sierra Leone's rural areas. A snail that carries bilharzia, a dangerous flatworm that causes the disease schistosomiasis, also inhabits many inland waterways, making drinking and swimming nearly impossible. Freetown's water supply, while vulnerable to various pollutants, is regulated by the Guma Valley Water Company.

People

Freetown is the largest city in Sierra Leone, with an urban population estimated at 1.309 million in 2023, according to the CIA World Factbook. Members of the country's two predominant tribes, the Mendes and Temnes, in addition to descendants of freed enslaved people from the Americas, known as Krio (Creole) people, make up the majority of the urban population. Freetown is also home to multinational minorities from various European and Asian countries, including the United Kingdom, India, and Lebanon.

English is the official language in Sierra Leone, but Krio, the English-based language spoken by the Creole population, is the most commonly used. Various indigenous languages are spoken among Sierra Leone's eighteen ethnic groups, including Mende, Temne, and Melinke. Arabic is used predominantly among the Muslim population.

Islam and Christianity are the dominant religions in Freetown and throughout Sierra Leone. Tribal and animist religions are also practiced.

While individual tribes continue to celebrate ancient customs and traditions, the Muslim holiday Ramadan is one of the most popular religious celebrations in Freetown and is marked by prayer, fasting, and culminating festivities that, historically, have included a parade of lanterns, musical performances, and elaborate feasts.

Musical performances typically involve African drums, which are usually accompanied by the balangi (xylophone), sansa (thumb piano), and various flutes. Traditional meals often feature the starchy fufu: yams, maize, or fermented cassava that has been pounded into malleable hand foods. Nuts and related products produced from the oil palm are also popular, as are rice dishes.

Freetown and Sierra Leone are well known for their secret societies and their influence over local politics and gender-specific social etiquette. Typically segregated by sex, these ancient societies most often focus on rites of passage ceremonies for boys and girls entering into adulthood. Male societies, including Poro and Wunde, promote leadership qualities in young men. Bondo, the name of the leading women's society, prepares young girls for marriage and motherhood. A powerful entity throughout Sierra Leone, Bondo (known as Sande in the southern region of the country) has come under external criticism for its customary practice of female genital mutilation.

Economy

The economy of Sierra Leone struggled during and after the civil war that ravaged the country from 1991 to 2002. In an effort to set the country on a positive course, the government, in partnership with domestic and international assistance, developed Vision 2025 and the Poverty Reduction Strategy (PRC). Both initiatives set goals for reducing poverty, growing the economy, and improving government transparency. However, according to the CIA World Factbook, almost 57 percent of the population lived in poverty as of 2018.

Despite the country's setbacks, Freetown benefits from its harborside location and is a vital commercial and transportation center, with long-established railroads and roads. Light industry specializes in paint production, rice milling, fish packing, and diamond cutting. Exports shipped out through the Port of Freetown include palm oil, coffee, cocoa, ginger, iron ore, bauxite, and rutile. Diamonds are Freetown's most famous export.

Sierra Leone's tourism industry includes beachside resorts and ecotourism operations. International flights are available through Freetown-Lungi International Airport in nearby Lungi, and domestic flights are available sixteen kilometers (ten miles) outside the city at Hastings Airport. Hovercraft, helicopter, and ferry service are popular ways to travel across the harbor.

Landmarks

Freetown was heavily damaged during the civil war in Sierra Leone. Many important historic sites remain intact, however, and the beaches skirting the harbor are considered to be some of the finest in the world.

Several of the remarkable sites in Freetown and the surrounding area are related to the slave trade industry that dominated West Africa between the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries. Among the most notable sites are the Cotton Tree and King's Gate. Centuries old, the Cotton Tree marks the site of a former slave market, where hundreds of slaves were eventually freed and around which the city of Freetown was built. King's Gate, also known as Slave Gate, was erected as a symbolic passageway. Any slave who passed beneath its stone archway would be free.

Also associated with the slave trade are the Portuguese Steps and Bunce Island. Carved out of stone, the Portuguese Steps are located near Freetown's harbor, where Portuguese slave traders bought and sold thousands of Africans. Bunce Island, situated at the mouth of the Sierra Leone River twenty-nine kilometers (eighteen miles) outside Freetown, retains artifacts and building sites related to one of the largest former slave markets in the world. Established in the early 1670s by the British Royal African Company, Bunce Island processed and shipped tens of thousands of captured Africans to North America and the West Indies until it was closed in 1808. Many Gullah families living on islands off the coast of present-day Georgia and South Carolina can trace their roots directly back to Bunce.

Many of the hilltop villages surrounding Freetown offer examples of Creole architecture and tribal dwellings, and the Sierra Leone Museum exhibits notable arts, crafts, and historical native artifacts, including nomalis (human figurines typically carved from soapstone into a burial position) and mahei yafei (statues used to frighten enemies away from a village).

Freetown and its suburbs are also home to many places of worship, including St. John's Maroon Church, established in 1820 by freed slaves from the West Indies; St. Charles Parish Church, built by missionaries in the early nineteenth century, and the oldest stone church in sub-Saharan Africa; and Foulah Town Mosque, built in 1830.

History

The Western Area of Sierra Leone, in which present-day Freetown is located, has been inhabited for thousands of years. Archeologists and historians believe that the Limba, Gola, Krim, and Sherbro were among the first tribes to settle in the region, beginning in about the eighth century CE. Other groups, including the Mende, later migrated north and westward, toward the ocean. Written accounts from the Carthaginian traveler Hanno, however, reveal that the coastline, including Freetown's expansive harbor, had been explored as early as 500 BCE.

Sierra Leone (originally Serra Lyoa, or Lion Mountains) was named by Portuguese sea captain Pedro da Cintra in 1462. The landscape, noted da Cinta, reminded him of a lion at rest, while the crashing waves sounded like a lion's roar.

During the fifteenth century, Muslim traders introduced Islam to West Africa, and Portuguese explorers established a fort along the coast that processed local exports, including gold, ivory, pepper, and slaves. These human exports originated from a multitude of African tribes and had been, in many cases, captured by members of opposing tribes and sold to European merchants.

Like the Portuguese, the British were drawn to Freetown's harbor and surrounding lands, where they eventually established trade agreements with local tribal kings. In 1672, the British Royal African Company built fortified markets on York Island and Bunce Island, located just outside present-day Freetown.

The British antislavery movement began in earnest in the eighteenth century at the behest of abolitionists Granville Sharp, William Wilberforce, and Thomas Clarkson. With thousands of freed slaves living on London's streets, Sharp and others sought for them a place of refuge where they might better prosper. Purchasing lands in 1787 from a Temne tribal leader known as King Tom, the British and approximately four hundred former slaves attempted to establish Granville Town, named in honor of Granville Sharp. The settlement was short-lived, however, as sickness, bad weather, and poor relations with the Temne contributed to its failure.

In 1791, Sharp and his constituents formed the Sierra Leone Company. With additional funding and agreements forged with local Temne leaders, former slaves who had escaped to Nova Scotia and Maroons, free blacks from Jamaica, joined other ex-slaves in the 1792 founding of Freetown. Between 1807, when British Parliament officially outlawed slavery, and 1864, the British Navy "recaptured" an estimated fifty thousand slaves, many of whom settled in Freetown and its environs.

In 1794, the French, who were adversaries of the British at that time, launched a devastating attack against Freetown. The city eventually recovered, only to be targeted again in the early 1800s by the Temne and a faction of former slaves.

The Sierra Leone peninsula, which included Freetown, came under the official protection of the British in 1808, when they named the region a crown colony. Under the guidance of European and American missionary societies and Creoles, the city developed into a cultural mecca and educational powerhouse. Secondary schools for children were founded, and Fourah Bay College, the first sub-Saharan institution of higher learning, was built during the period when Freetown was considered the Athens of West Africa. James Africanus Beale Horton and Samuel Adjai Crowther were considered members of the educated black elite, which included doctors, lawyers, writers, and religious leaders.

Between World War I and World II, Freetown prospered under British rule as a strategic naval base, but the region's citizens were eager for independence. In April 1961, Sierra Leone was officially recognized as an independent entity.

The progress made in Sierra Leone over its six years of independence was threatened when Siaka Stevens, the All-People's Congress (APC) candidate, took power in 1967. In 1978, Stevens declared Sierra Leone a one-party nation, and the instability that marked his first decade in office worsened. Diamond smuggling became prevalent, strip-mining depleted natural resources and destroyed the landscape, and violence and poverty threatened the entire population, including those living in Freetown.

Joseph Saidu Momoh, who succeeded Stevens in 1985, perpetuated the instability that had plagued the nation for twenty years. He was ousted in a 1992 coup d'état, upon which the National Provisional Ruling Council (NPRC) named Captain Valentine E. M. Strasser the nation's leader.

Longtime civil servant Alhaji Ahmad Tejan Kabbah, head of the Sierra Leone People's Party (SLPP), played a role in the postcoup transitional government and was elected president in 1996, vowing to establish an inclusive government, improve the economy, and end the rebel war incited by the Revolutionary United Front (RUF) six years prior.

Under the command of Foday Sankoh, the RUF conscripted children, criminals, and drug addicts into their ranks, with the goal of seizing control of Sierra Leone's diamond industry. These blood diamonds, as they are commonly known, provided the necessary resources to fund the war. An estimated fifty thousand people were killed during the civil war, including more than five thousand people residing in Freetown, which the RUF infiltrated and burned in 1999. Thousands of others were tortured and raped. Violence continued for another three years.

Approximately 13,000 UN peacekeeping troops began to maintain order in and around Freetown in 2003. In 2007, Ernest Bai Koroma, head of the APC, was elected president, promising to distribute resources fairly and reduce corruption.

While still recovering from a devastating civil war and decades of political instability, Freetown was expected to benefit from progressive plans set forth by Koroma, who was reelected in 2012. The UN Integrated Peacebuilding Office in Sierra Leone closed in March of 2014. Since then, the city has been beset by a number of natural disasters, including the West African Ebola epidemic of 2014 to 2016, which killed nearly 4,000 people nationwide, and severe mudslides on the outskirts of Freetown in 2017 that killed more than 1,000 people following heavy rains.

Freetown and Sierra Leone are both prone to flooding and mudslides, which have been increasing in frequency in the region due to deforestation. Freetown experienced a series of floods and mudslides in 2019, 2022, and 2023 that left several people dead.

By Meredith Reed O'Donnell

Bibliography

Allan, Elizabeth. "Freetown's New Mayor Brings New Vision to Sierra Leone." Ozy, 7 May 2018, www.ozy.com/rising-stars/freetowns-new-mayor-brings-new-vision-to-sierra-leone/85948. Accessed 23 Apr. 2019.

Barry, Jaime Yaya. "‘All We See Is Dead Bodies’: Sierra Leone Floods and Mudslides Ravage Freetown." The New York Times, 14 Aug. 2017, www.nytimes.com/2017/08/14/world/africa/sierra-leone-floods-freetown.html. Accessed 28 Feb. 2024.

Campbell, Greg. Blood Diamonds: Tracing the Deadly Path of the World's Most Precious Stones. New York: Basic, 2013. Print.

Cole, Gibril R. The Krio of West Africa. Athens: Ohio UP, 2013. Print.

Everill, Bronwen. Abolition and Empire in Sierra Leone and Liberia. New York: Palgrave, 2012. Print.

Maxmen, Amy. "How Ebola Found Fertile Ground in Sierra Leone's Chaotic Capital." National Geographic, 27 Jan. 2015, www.nationalgeographic.com/pages/article/150127-ebola-virus-outbreak-epidemic-sierra-leone-freetown-photos-pictures. Accessed 28 Feb. 2024.

"Sierra Leone." FloodList, 2024, floodlist.com/tag/sierra-leone. Accessed 28 Feb. 2024.

"Sierra Leone." World Factbook, Central Intelligence Agency, 20 Feb. 2024, www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/countries/sierra-leone/. Accessed 28 Feb. 2024.