Braiding

Braiding is a weaving technique that uses three or more strips of cloth, leather, cord, ribbon, or other material to form a decorative or functional object. Another term commonly used for braiding is "plaiting," although technically, plaiting refers to braiding in two directions with a minimum of four strands.

Braiding is an ancient technique that evolved long before the invention of the weaving loom. Although historians cannot trace the technique to a specific era, it is clear that the earliest humans braided reeds and other natural fibers to strengthen them for utilitarian purposes.

Kumihimo, a Japanese technique for making decorative braids, evolved about 550 CE and was used for religious ceremonial clothing and samurai armor. Kumihimo uses several types of looms including the marudai, a round stand. A loom allows for more strands to be braided than can usually be done by hand. Between eight and twelve strands are typically interwoven on a loom, but as many as 100 strands can be woven at a time.

Fingerloop braiding evolved in Europe during the medieval period and was used for clothing fasteners or embellishment. Most braids are made with five to seven loops, braids may be made with multiple loops on all ten fingers. The intricate patterns look similar to loom weaving.

Hair braiding was practiced in most cultures throughout the world, including many Native American and African cultures. In some cases, braiding was simply an effective way to keep hair off the neck and face. In other cultures, braids designated one's status as a chief or a warrior or symbolized a woman's marital status.

The braiding of horse manes is associated with the animal's value. Traditionally, only the best horses used for fox hunting were braided. Today, horse braiding is a routine step in grooming a horse for a show.

Braiding has been a popular craft among cowboys and cowgirls, who use the technique to create rawhide and kangaroo leather reins, lariats, quirts (whips), and custom tack.

The versatility of braiding lends itself well to many different types of projects. Home décor items that can be made by braiding include curtain tie-backs, pull cords, throw rugs, and slipcover trim. Personal items include jewelry, purse handles, shoelaces, and hat bands. Braids can also embellish clothing as sashes, belts, sweater ties, shoulder straps, and much more.

Children can be introduced to braiding by making friendship bracelets out of plastic lanyard, also known as "boondoggle" or "gymp." The most popular use for braiding today is for decorative hair sculptures. Cornrows and micro braids reflect African cultural heritage, while French braids and wrap-arounds interwoven with flowers are typically part of the costume worn at Renaissance fairs and other special occasions.

General braiding supplies

• Scissors
• Craft knife
• Ruler and other measuring tools
• Pens and pencils
• Masking tape
• Clips (paper, hair, alligator clips)
• Thread, cord, yarn, ribbon, lacing, or other material to be braided
• Cyanoacrylate, nail polish, or lacquer for ends
• Embellishment (beads, feathers, ribbons)
• Hooks, key rings, belt buckles, or other project-specific materials
• Books, instructions, patterns

Kumihimo

• Marudai, or a foam disk loom for round braids, or a foam plate loom for flat braids
• Tama (special wooden bobbins filled with lead) or other type of bobbin
• Omori or other counter-weight
• Threads (Kumihimo thread, embroidery floss, other lightweight fiber)

Braiding with Leather

• Pounding board
• Pounding stick
• Bone folder
• Fid
• Leather conditioner and waterproofing (optional)
• Mandrel (cylinder or metal rod)
• Leather lacing

Hair braiding

• Picks (for African hair breading)
• Covered elastic bands (not rubber bands)
• Mirror
• Combs

Techniques

The two types of braids most suitable for novices are flat and round. Flat braids include bookmarks and leather belts, while round braids include pull-cords and rawhide whips. Each can be made with three or more strands. Novices should begin with three-strand braids and then progress to projects that involve more strands.

Braiding is easiest for novices when each strand is a different color and the colors are matched to the instructional diagrams. Knowledge of color theory will help a more experienced braider to create pleasing new patterns.

Each strand should be cut to the same length, unless otherwise noted. In some cases, one or two strands will end up longer than the others because they remained stationary more often than the other cords. These can be trimmed.

While braiding, the ends will need to be continually untangled to prevent their becoming braided, too. Long cords can be scrunched up and tied with a rubber band or paper clip and then gradually unwound.

The trick to successful braiding is to keep each strand separate and identifiable. All strands not being interwoven at the moment need to be kept out of the way. The tension needs to be even: tight, but not so taut that the threads are pulled or the braid becomes misshapen.

Fingerloop braiding begins with folding strands in half and then tying the ends to a stable surface, such as a table leg. The loops formed by folding the strands in half are placed over certain fingers. The braider sits back from the table so that the cords are pulled taut enough for braiding. Each loop consists of a top and bottom strand that will be interwoven separately, unless the pattern states otherwise. Novices at fingerloop weaving should limit their first project to just a few loops.

Kumihimo requires the use of a loom. The marudai sits on the floor or tabletop, while the disk and plate looms are held in the braider's hand. The threads hang down around the perimeter of the loom and are interwoven by moving them back and forth across the loom into numbered slots. The braid forms underneath the loom through a hole in the center. The marudai is quite versatile and capable of forming many types and sizes of braids, whereas the plate loom only produces flat braids and the disk loom produces round braids. Other types of Kumihimo looms are available as well.

The ends of braids can be finished in several ways. One can finish with a decorative knot or tassel, or wrap with a piece of thread. Plastic lace can be glued. Shoelace ends can be stiffened with nail polish or lacquer.

Trends

Kumihimo braiding is gaining in popularity along with interest in other Asian crafts.

Ribbons, textured yarns, metallic threads, and other new materials offer many creative possibilities. Jewelry enthusiasts have been braiding wire to make bracelets, necklaces, and other wearable art.

Hair sculptures formed with multiple braids and synthetic hairpieces continue to attract much attention. In recent years, many states have implemented certification requirements for commercial hair braiders, although some braiders have been fighting the changes.

Braiding for Fun vs. Profit

A skilled hair-braiding artist can find employment in salons and at Renaissance festivals. Custom work for weddings, theatrical productions, and other special events offer additional possibilities for extra income.

Personal and home décor braided items can be sold at craft fairs and galleries. Horse tack and related items can be sold through equine networks, horse shows, rodeos, and retailers.

Learning More

Organizations

Braid Society <https://thebraidsociety.wildapricot.org/>

Braiding Freedom <https://braidingfreedom.com/>

Traditional Cowboy Arts Association <https://tcowboyarts.org/>

Books

Carey, Jacqui. Beginner's Guide to Braiding, the Craft of Kumihimo. Tunbridge Wells, England: Search Press, 1997.

Carey, Jacqui. The Braider's Bible: Over 200 Braids to Loop, Knot, Weave, and Twist. Tunbridge Wells, England: Search Press, 2007.

Coen, Patricia, Joe Maxwell, and James Wagenvoord. Beautiful Braids: The Step-by-Step Guide to Braiding Styles for Every Occasion and All Ages. New York: Random House, 1996.

Grant, Bruce. Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding. Centreville, MD: Cornell Maritime Press, 1972.

Speiser, Noemi. The Manual of Braiding. 4th ed. Self-published, 1997.

Turner, Alta R. Finger Weaving: Indian Braiding. Summertown, TN: Book Publishing Co., 1989.

Woolery, Robert. R. Braiding Rawhide Horse Tack. Centreville, MD: Cornell Maritime Press, 1985.