Homburg hat
The homburg hat is a classic style of men's headwear characterized by its stiff wool felt construction, a centered dent known as a gutter crown, a stiff brim with a distinctive kettle curl, and a wide silk grosgrain hatband, often adorned with a feather. It emerged in the late nineteenth century and gained popularity, in part, due to its association with prominent British political figures like Edward VII, Winston Churchill, and Anthony Eden, which helped position it as a distinguished alternative to the fedora. The origins of the homburg are debated, with theories linking it to the German town of Bad Homburg, where Edward VII was inspired by a hat he encountered during a visit, or potentially influenced by styles popularized by Kaiser Wilhelm II or a Florentine engineer. The homburg reached its height of popularity in the mid-twentieth century but saw a revival in the 1970s, notably due to Al Pacino's portrayal of Michael Corleone in "The Godfather." Today, the homburg remains a symbol of elegance and has been worn by a range of celebrities, including Brad Pitt and David Beckham, reflecting its enduring appeal in fashion.
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Homburg hat
A homburg hat is a traditional style of men’s hat made of stiff wool felt that typically features a dent in the center of the crown, a stiff brim with a slight upward curl, a wide silk grosgrain hatband ribbon, and a ribbon-bound trim around the edge of the brim. Similar in appearance to a fedora, the homburg was created and popularized in the late nineteenth century. Much of the homburg’s popularity was driven by the fact that it was favored by a number of prominent British political figures, including Edward VII and Prime Ministers Anthony Eden and Winston Churchill.
Overview
Most haberdashery experts traditionally consider the homburg hat a more distinguished alternative to the fedora. In form, homburgs and fedoras are actually quite similar. A typical fedora features a relatively low-profile teardrop-shaped crown, sharply-tapered front, and, in many cases, an uncurled brim. The homburg, meanwhile, features a comparatively rounded crown with a centered crease and a curled brim. The specific type of dent found on the crown of a homburg is known as a gutter crown. Homburgs also typically feature a wide silk grosgrain hatband ribbon that wraps around the base of the hat. Often, a feather is tucked into this ribbon. The homburg’s stiff curled brim is referred to as a kettle curl. The outer edge of this brim often features a ribbon-bound trim.
While there is some dispute over the exact historical origins of the homburg, its emergence can clearly be dated to the late nineteenth century. The most common theory is tied to the town of Bad Homburg in Hesse, Germany. Bad Homburg was a well-known spa destination noted for its supposed healing waters. Britain’s Edward VII, then the crown prince, traveled to Bad Homburg in August 1882. While there, he visited the Möckel hat factory. Soon thereafter, the prince was spotted wearing a new style of hat that some alleged he designed himself at the factory. A picture of Edward in his new hat that was published in various newspapers quickly made the homburg the hottest new trend in men’s headwear. Another theory suggests that Edward was inspired by a similar hunting hat owned by Kaiser Wilhelm II that was also made by Möckel. This has led some experts to view the Kaiser as the homburg’s originator. A separate third theory gives credit for the homburg to Italian engineer and politician Cristiano Lobbia. According to legend, Lobbia either fell or was struck with a stick while wearing a bowler hat in 1869. In any event, the impact creased the crown of his hat. A Florentine hatter who subsequently saw the hat’s unintentional design alternation is said to have used it to market a new style of hat that he called the Lobbia, which apparently became known as the homburg elsewhere.
The homburg reached the peak of its popularity in the mid-twentieth century, thanks to famous wearers like British prime ministers Anthony Eden and Winston Churchill and American president Dwight D. Eisenhower. Although it largely fell out of style in the 1960s, the homburg enjoyed a brief resurgence in the 1970s after it was worn by actor Al Pacino during his performance as Michael Corleone in The Godfather (1972). For this reason, the homburg is also sometimes known as the Godfather. Several other figures in popular culture have worn the homburg. Celebrities such as Brad Pitt and David Beckham have been publicly seen in homburgs.
Bibliography
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“Homburg Hat vs. Fedora: Find the Style That’s Right for You.” Tenth Street, 2019, blog.tenthstreethats.com/posts/homburg-hat-vs-fedora. Accessed 15 Nov. 2024.
McKay, Brett and Kate. “Bringing Back the Hat.” The Art of Manliness, 25 Sept. 2021, www.artofmanliness.com/articles/bringing-back-the-hat. Accessed 15 Nov. 2024.
Sarfati, Aaron. “The Iconic Godfather Hat: A Symbol of Power and Style.” Aligator Boss, 2 June 2024, www.alligatorboss.com/blog/the-iconic-godfather-hat-a-symbol-of-power-and-style. Accessed 15 Nov. 2024.
Schneider, Sven Raphael. “Homburg Hat – Past, Present & Future.” Gentleman’s Gazette, 17 May 2012, www.gentlemansgazette.com/homburg-hat-history-style. Accessed 15 Nov. 2024.
Thomas, Charlie. “A Guide to Wearing Gentlemen’s Hats.” Gentleman’s Journal, www.thegentlemansjournal.com/guide-wearing-gentlemans-hats. Accessed 15 Nov. 2024.