Soap Making

History

Archaeological evidence from the Middle East indicates that soap was known to the Babylonians by at least 2300 BCE. It is believed, however, that this soap was used for medicinal purposes rather than for washing. The Ebers Papyrus of 1500 BCE clearly states that soap was used in Egypt in the treatment of skin diseases.

When the ancients wanted to clean themselves, they rubbed their bodies with sand or pumice. The very wealthy then soothed their abraded skin with perfumed oils. The Romans rubbed the oil on the skin first and then scraped it off, along with dirt, using wooden sticks called strigils.

Among the first civilizations to recognize the value of soap in cleansing were the Arabs and the Turks. The Romans also eventually came to understand the cleansing properties of soap.

It is likely that the Turks introduced soap to Europe. Both the Vikings and the Celts manufactured the substance. In fact, the Celtic word "saipo" is the root of the English word "soap," as well as the root for the name in several modern European languages and the Turkish "sabun."

Soap is mentioned in British literature beginning about 1000 CE. By 1193, writers were complaining about the unpleasant smells of soap making in Bristol. In the next century, Marseilles became the first great soap making center. Genoa, Venice and Bari (Italy) and Castile (Spain) soon followed. Soap was a mixture of lye and animal or vegetable fats, the basic formula used to this day.

While it appears that people in the fourteenth century bathed, cleanliness soon lost its appeal and sometimes was even considered heretical. Instead, soap was used for laundering textiles, especially during the manufacturing process. By the seventeenth century, virtually nobody bathed.

In fact, Oliver Cromwell, England's dictator during the seventeenth-century Protectorate, levied a high tax on soap to discourage its use for any purpose. The Protectorate ended in 1660, but the tax was retained. In time, the tax rose to 100 percent, so even if ordinary people had wanted to bathe, they could not have afforded it. Finally, in 1852, under Prime Minister William Gladstone, the tax was repealed.

Meanwhile, the colonists in America found no soap in their new environment. The Native Americans, while valuing personal cleanliness, did not have soap. Instead, they evidently used saponaceous (soap-like) plants such as yucca, fuchsia leaves, soaproot and small agave in cleansing themselves.

Colonial housewives saved their cooking grease and ashes (separately) throughout the year. On soap-making day, they ran water through the ashes to extract lye. This was then stirred into the saved fat that had been boiled and skimmed to remove impurities. The soap thus produced was soft or liquid.

By the early eighteenth century, tallow chandlers and soap boilers were making both soap and candles more cheaply than they could be made at home. A century later, William Colgate became a pioneer in soap manufacturing. In the 1830s, he introduced soap in individual-wrapped bars.

Cold Process:

• Lye (CAUTION: Use only the type of lye required by the recipe, and carefully read the label on the bottle)
• Fat (animal or vegetable, solid or oil)
• Water

• Large mixing bowl, preferably stainless steel
• Glass container for mixing lye and water
• Pot or microwave-safe container for heating oils
• Two candy or meat thermometers
• Protective wear (goggles, rubber gloves, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, shoes)
• A bottle of vinegar, to neutralize any lye spills.
• Soap molds (wood, plastic or cardboard—but NOT aluminum, Teflon, tin, or copper)
• Measuring spoons, pot holders, plastic spatulas
• Soap cutter or large knife

Additional materials required for hot process and melt and pour methods include pots for boiling, molds, and double boilers.

Techniques

The following are very general descriptions. There are many soap recipes, and each process should be researched carefully before beginning a project. Some wholesalers provide soap kits suitable for use by children, with supervision.

Cold Process Method:

• 1. Gently heat fat.
• 2. In separate container, slowly add lye to room-temperature water (NEVER the other way around).
• 3. The mixture will become VERY hot; stir until the water turns clear.
• 4. Let the mixture cool.
• 5. Pour the heated fat into large mixing bowl.
• 6. Stirring continuously, SLOWLY add lye mixture to the fat (NEVER the other way around).
• 7. Stir until the soap "traces," or becomes thick and leaves a trail when drizzled over the top with a spatula.
• 8. Optional: Add herbs, essential oils and/or coloring.
• 9. Pour the soap into the mold and cover with clear plastic wrap
• 10. Cover with a blanket or towel and put in a warm place for the time specified in the recipe.
• 11. Remove the soap from the mold and cut into bars
• 12. Place the bars on waxed paper or plastic wrap to cure in a cool, dry, dark place for at least three weeks.

Hot Process Method:

• 1. Boil fat and lye for 6 to 8 hours until soap is formed.
• 2. Add color and/or fragrance.
• 3. Pour the soap into molds.

Melt and Pour Method:

• 1. Slowly melt the base in a double boiler.
• 2. Add fragrance.
• 3. Add color.
• 4. Pour into molds.

Trends

Along with a return to homemade soaps comes a return to the idea of natural ingredients. Botanicals, from avocados to honey, have become common additives to basic soap. Essential oils or herbs, rather than synthetic perfumes, are commonly used to provide fragrance. Soaps may be themed and fragranced and dyed accordingly.

Goats' milk and shea butter became in-demand soap ingredients in the 2000s and 2010s. Vegan soaps, in which no animal products are used, are another recent trend. So-called glycerin soaps are also popular. In spite of the name, these transparent soaps contain no more glycerin than other soaps and may even contain less. Interest in aromatherapy, the organic movement, and sensitive-skin treatment have driven demand for artisan soaps.

Some soap makers have encouraged the gift-giving of homemade soap by packaging it in fine papers. Many also produce related personal-care or home-cleaning items.

Soap-making for Fun vs. Profit

As more and more health- and conservation-conscious people turn to natural products, homemade soap is enjoying a resurgence in the marketplace. Soaps made without synthetic chemicals are generally better for the skin and more likely to be hypoallergenic. The substances in natural soap are renewable resources.

Government approval is not required to start a soap-making business, and materials costs are low. While hobbyists can make money from homemade soaps, it is unlikely that most people will be able to make a living on soap making alone. Potential markets for homemade soap include craft fairs, farmers' markets, gift shops, card and candle shops, bath and body shops, spas, health food stores, product parties, websites, and online craft retail sites. Soap makers may also be able to turn their hobby into a business through teaching or writing.

Learning More

Organizations

The Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetic Guild <http://www.soapguild.org/>

Teach Soap <http://teachsoap.com/>

Books

Browning, Marie. 300 Handcrafted Soaps: Great Melt & Pour Projects. New York: Sterling, 2003.

Cavitch, Susan Miller. The Natural Soap Book: Making Herbal and Vegetable-Based Soaps. North Adams, MA: Storey, 1995.

Failor, Catherine. Transparent Soapmaking: A Complete Guide to Making Natural See-Through Soap. Portland, OR: Rose City Press, 1997.

Maine, Sandy. The Soap Book: Simple Herbal Recipes. Loveland, CO: Interweave Press, 1995.

Nerius, Maria Given. Soapmaking for Fun & Profit. Rockland, CA: Prima House, 1999.