Spinning

History

Spinning is the process used to turn cotton, wool, flax, or other fibers into yarn or thread. Although it was mechanized hundreds of years ago, many enthusiasts take up the craft of spinning with a "drop" spindle or a spinning wheel because hand-spun yarn embodies a warmth and beauty unmatched by mass-production.

The first spinning tools were the human fingers, which coaxed flax fibers into threads strong and thin enough for weaving into linen cloth. The thread was wrapped around a stick, which served as a primitive spindle. Later on, humans realized that a weight placed on the stick would make it spin faster, and the drop spindle was born. These first weights, called whorls, were made of stone or clay.

As the hand spindle evolved, wood replaced twigs and lead whorls replaced stone. By the medieval period, yarns of every diameter and fiber, from the finest silk to the heaviest wools, could be spun effortlessly. However, the process was time-consuming.

To increase productivity, Europeans turned the spindle on its side, added a large wheel (called the great wheel), and attached it to a belt that could make the spindle spin when the wheel was turned. Foot treadles were introduced that enabled a spinner to work uninterrupted while sitting down.

The colonists brought their great wheels to America, which allowed colonists to produce the yarn needed for wool hats and sweaters to keep themselves warm during the winter.

In 1765, the Industrial Revolution was under way in England. At that time, James Hargreaves, a British carpenter and weaver, invented the spinning Jenny, a machine fitted with eight spindles capable of spinning eight threads simultaneously.

Hargreaves' invention led to more advanced machines that could spin over a hundred threads at the same time. Eventually, spinning machines operated by steam power propelled the textile industries in Europe and America.

The Industrial Revolution nearly wiped out hand spinning, until enthusiasts revived the craft in the twentieth century. One of the biggest proponents of the spinning revival was Mahatma Gandhi. During the 1940s, Gandhi promoted spinning to his nation as a spiritual activity and a means to gain independence from Great Britain. The Indian charkha spinning wheel continues to be one of the most popular models today.

The knitting and crocheting movement has played a significant role in the renewed interest in spinning. Many crafters appreciate the control over yarn quality and color provided by spinning and hand-dying.

Contemporary spinners can choose from cotton, flax, and other fibers produced by plants, as well as a wide range of wool, including mohair, alpaca, and angora.

Techniques

A buyer should test a hand spindle and/or spinning machine before making an investment in either one. Hand spindles are available with the whorl on the top, the bottom, or closer to the middle (known as a "supported" spindle), and can be strictly functional or also decorative. The weight of the spindle is directly related to the bulk of yarn that can be spun on it: the heavier the spindle, the bulkier the yarn can be.

Spinning wheels can be categorized by several different criteria, including the manner of operation (hand or foot) and the type of setup (horizontal or vertical). Vertical models tend to take up less space, offer a bobbin/flyer unit, and treadles for foot operation. Horizontal wheels are available in both spindle and bobbin/flyer models.

The faster the wheel can spin, the finer the yarn that can be spun. When selecting a model, one should read the wheel-to-flyer ratio to determine the wheel's capability. Many models can be upgraded to accommodate a finer or thicker yarn.

The process of spinning fleece into yarn begins first with the washing process, after which the fleece can be dyed. When dried, the fleece is combed and pulled into a "top" to be carded. Carding gets rid of seeds and other foreign matter while separating the longer fibers from the shorter ones. The resulting fluffy mass, called a batt, is then rolled out into rolags or rovings, which are finger-width strands. Some spinners avoid the washing and processing steps by purchasing ready-to-spin rovings.

The first step in the spinning process is to "daft" the fibers by pulling them out from the rovings and twisting them over the tip of the spindle. If only a few fibers are pulled, the yarn will be thin; more fibers will result in a thicker yarn. The yarn is then wound onto either a bobbin or a spindle using either a clockwise or counter-clockwise twist. Individual sections will be spliced together during the spinning process to yield a longer stretch of yarn.

Yarn that has been twisted in one direction is referred to as a "single," regardless of how many strands are twisted together. "Plied" yarn is the term for multiple singles twisted together in opposite directions from the way the singles were spun. Plying makes for stronger yarns and creates texture. Two-ply yarns are most often used for weaving, while three-ply yarns are used most often for knitting. Yarn also comes in four-and five-plies.

Patience, a sense of calm, and the ability to maintain a steady rhythm are important attributes for spinners.

After the spinning process, the yarn is wound into skeins on a niddy-noddy. After winding, the skein is tied, usually in three places, and then removed from the winder.

Before weaving or knitting, yarn should be washed again to help cut down on shrinkage. Most natural fibers should never be washed in warm or hot water or machine-dried unless felt is the desired result.

Trends

The interest in decorative yarns has many crafters trying their hands at spinning unusual textures, mixes, and colors. "Beehives," "nubs," and "granny stacks" are among the most contemporary innovations used to create textured yarn. Many spinners have become increasingly concerned with creating yarn that is, in itself, considered a work of art by considering how to use different techniques and colors to convey a theme or other concepts.

Soy silk, leftover after the production of tofu, and Ingeo, a fiber made from corn, are among the latest new fibers to grab the attention of spinners.

Spinning for Fun vs. Profit

Homemade yarns are very popular among knitters, weavers, crocheters, and other fiber artists. One can sell quality yarn in retail stores, farm markets, and craft fairs. Online vendors, particularly crafty sites such as Etsy, can also be used. Spinners often work (or volunteer) in historical museums or demonstrate at historical reenactments. Some spinners work for the textile industry or in related industries.

Learning More

Organizations

Handweavers Guild of America

American Sheep Industry Association

Books

Boeger, Lexi. Intertwined: The Art of Handspun Yarn, Modern Patterns and Creative Spinning. Quarry, 2008.

Daykin, Alison and Jane Deane. Creative Spinning. Lark, 2008.

Gibson-Roberts, Priscilla A. Spinning in the Old Way: How (and Why) to Make Your Own Yarn with a High-Whorl Handspindle. Nomad Press, 2006.

Kroll, Carol. The Whole Craft of Spinning: From the Raw Material to the Finished Yarn. Dover, 1981.

Okey, Shannon. Spin to Knit: The Knitter's Guide to Making Yarn. Interweave, 2006.

Raven, Lee. Spin It: Making Yarn from Scratch. Interweave, 2003.

DVD/Video

Hallman, Eileen. Spinning Cotton on the Charkha. New World Textiles.