The Gardens of Mont-Saint-Michel by William Maxwell
"The Gardens of Mont-Saint-Michel" by William Maxwell is a reflective narrative centered around John Reynolds and his family's visit to the iconic Mont-Saint-Michel abbey, a site of cultural and historical significance in France. The story juxtaposes Reynolds’ nostalgic memories of a peaceful honeymoon against the backdrop of commercialization and change that has occurred since that time. As they navigate the challenges of travel, including navigating unfamiliar roads and dealing with an overwhelming influx of tourists, Reynolds grapples with feelings of disappointment and a sense of loss for the idyllic experience he once cherished.
The character development is a key focus, presenting Reynolds' emotional journey as he encounters various aspects of modern tourism that clash with his memories. Humorous and poignant moments illustrate the family's dynamics, as well as the contrast between Reynolds' fond recollections and the harsh realities of their current experience. Highlights of their journey include a mix of pleasant discoveries, such as a historical exhibit, and moments of disheartenment, including the lack of traditional aspects in dining and the troubling observations of other tourists' behavior. Ultimately, the story captures the complexities of nostalgia, the impact of change on cherished memories, and the nuances of cross-cultural interactions, inviting readers to reflect on their own experiences of place and memory.
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The Gardens of Mont-Saint-Michel by William Maxwell
First published: 1969
Type of plot: Autobiographical, character study
Time of work: 1966
Locale: Pontorson and Mont-Saint-Michel, Normandy, France
Principal Characters:
John Reynolds , an American touristDorothy , his wifeAllison , their older daughterTrip , their younger daughterLinda Porter , their teenage niece
The Story
The character of John Reynolds forms the core of "The Gardens of Mont-Saint-Michel," in which he and his family travel to France and visit the famed abbey. During this trip, Reynolds feels disappointment at the commercialism that now detracts from the area where he and his wife had earlier experienced an idyllic honeymoon. As in so much of William Maxwell's work, the story centers on character development, with little emphasis on plot.
In a humorous opening scene, Reynolds strains to drive a rented Volkswagen bus on unfamiliar streets, fearing an accident and suffering from a cramped leg. His charming wife, Dorothy, eccentric daughters Allison and Trip, and niece Linda Porter are unaware of his distress.
The story alternates between positive and negative events. On the way to Mont-Saint-Michel, the travelers pass through Pontorson, where the couple had stayed briefly on their honeymoon. Reynolds fondly recalls the kindness and friendly assistance of the hotel staff. However, increased traffic and widened streets have now rendered their once quaint hotel nearly unrecognizable.
As the family proceeds, they see that nondescript new houses have replaced the beautiful old farmhouses that once lined the French roadside. Rows of tourist buses indicate crowded conditions at their destination. The first view of the abbey is breathtaking, but it soon disappears behind the facade of a new hotel. On arrival at Mont-Saint-Michel, Reynolds is not allowed access to the parking lot he had been instructed to use. The family is forced to hike a long way up to their hotel, only to discover the rooms are overheated. When Reynolds returns to his car to move it to the correct lot, he is inexplicably waved on in. After this, the hotel porter cheerfully and single-handedly carries the whole family's luggage up many flights of stairs.
Settling in, Reynolds finds his mood improving as he recalls the timelessness of the ancient private gardens that the couple had discovered on their first trip. He also recalls the sound of the whisks as the restaurant cooks prepared omelets. However, his warm reverie is soon replaced by dismay. When the family orders omelets for lunch, the waiter claims they have no herbs—a staple of French cooking! Later, on a tour of the abbey, Reynolds is offended that uncaring French tourists slip away without tipping a young tour guide dependent on gratuities for his education. In addition, the sight of a dejected young girl in a nearby hotel room troubles Reynolds and his wife. At dinner, the restaurant service worsens.
The evening improves as the family walks down to the shoreline to watch the incoming tide fill the vast sand flats surrounding the abbey. Surprisingly, they are the only ones there, and the family is free to enjoy the experience. However, when returning to their rooms, they overhear a horrifying scream. Unable to ascertain its source in the dense buildings, Reynolds gloomily concludes that he can do nothing to provide assistance and so strives to reassure his badly shaken family.
In the morning the family enjoys a new discovery—an excellent historical exhibit—and visit a small garden. As they prepare to leave, Reynolds finally realizes that new hotel rooms and enlarged souvenir stores have replaced the gardens he loved. In a rage of disappointment, hurrying to get away, he leaves his travelers checks at the cashier's desk and the family's airline tickets at the concierge's desk. Both employees pleasantly return his property. Reynolds suddenly appreciates these examples of good service. He realizes that to the French, he must seem strange and incomprehensible.