Kilt
A kilt is a knee-length garment characterized by pleats at the back and a smooth front, traditionally worn by men but increasingly embraced by people of all genders. Originating in the Scottish Highlands in the sixteenth century, kilts are closely associated with Celtic culture and are typically made from tartan fabric, though modern variations include solid colors and materials like denim or leather. The earliest form of the kilt, known as the feilidh-mòr, consisted of a long piece of woolen fabric gathered around the waist and secured with a belt. Over time, this evolved into the tailored kilt we recognize today, with stitched pleats and specific tartan patterns that can signify familial or regional heritage.
Kilts have a rich historical significance, having faced bans in the eighteenth century, which led to the loss of many traditional patterns. However, renewed interest in the nineteenth century and advancements in dyeing techniques have led to a resurgence in both classic and contemporary designs. By the twenty-first century, kilts have become popular not only for formal occasions like weddings but also as everyday attire, with utility kilts gaining traction. The influence of celebrities and social media has further popularized kilts, making them a fashionable choice for individuals of diverse backgrounds, reflecting a broader acceptance and appreciation of this iconic garment beyond its Scottish roots.
On this Page
Kilt
A kilt is a knee-length garment with pleats across the back and a smooth front, or apron. Although men traditionally wear them, kilts resemble skirts. They originated in the Scottish Highlands during the sixteenth century and are associated with the Celtic peoples. Kilts are usually made of woven tartan fabric, although some modern kilts are made in solid colors or nontraditional materials and patterns, such as camouflage.
Overview
A pleated, belted garment is first mentioned in 1594 in a description of Scottish mercenaries. The earliest version of the kilt is called the feilidh-mòr, or great wrap. It is also known as a breacan-feile (belted plaid) or tartan wrap. It is composed of a long length of heavy woolen fabric—about 4 or 5 yards (3.6 to 4.6 meters) long and 50 inches (127 centimeters) wide—that is gathered into folds around the waist and held in place with a belt. The overlapping ends of the plaid and the lengths of fabric hanging over the belt are often folded over the shoulders, with the ends left loose at the back or tucked into the belt. The wearer may use the ends to cover varying amounts of the upper body. The wearer may also drape and tuck the extra fabric to create pouches for storing and carrying items. The belt serves as an anchor for items, such as a pouch called a sporran, or for weapons, such as knives. Although the fabric is referred to as plaid, in many cases, belted plaids were dark brown, either plain or patterned.
A version of the belted plaid that resembles the modern kilt developed during the late seventeenth century. The woolen fabric of the time was about 25 inches (63 centimeters) wide, so people had to sew two pieces together to make the 50-inch-wide fabric required for a belted plaid. Eventually, people began wearing pleated, belted garments made of 4 yards of 25-inch-wide fabric known as a feileadh-beag, or little wrap. A feileadh-beag dating from 1792 is the first example in which the pleats were stitched into the garment. This first tailored kilt contains 4 yards of tartan sewn into wide box pleats.
Tartan patterns have a complicated past. Many of these plaid-like patterns are just a few centuries old. Traditional dyes used to color the threads were made using local plants. The colors were associated with specific geographical locations in Scotland—often with local families. Weavers used pieces of wood on which the exact colors of each thread were labeled to ensure they created the correct pattern. During the eighteenth century, England outlawed the wearing of tartan. As a result, the wooden pattern sticks and the fabrics themselves often disappeared. A revived interest in tartans in the nineteenth century required weavers to design new patterns. Modern dyes have allowed designers to create more varied and colorful tartans, and tartan registries identify some patterns as belonging to families or groups.
The kilt continues to evolve in the twenty-first century. Designers have created modern kilts as everyday wear. These include utility kilts with pockets and kilts made of leather, denim, tweed, and other fabrics. In the mid-2020s, kilts continued their resurgence in popularity. Traditional kilts remained popular attire for formal occasions, such as weddings, and those with a connection to Scottish culture often seek out specific patterns associated with their heritage. Casual kilts and utility kilts continued to grow in popularity. Kilts have sometimes been seen on high fashion runways. While once not widely available, kilts could be purchased easily on the Internet from many designers and retailers. While the wearing of kilts was traditionally only associated with men, all genders and non-binary individuals wore kilts in the twenty-first century, and celebrities and social media influencers have contributed to making the wearing of kilts a popular trend. Finally, while once only worn by people of Scottish heritage, kilts have become embraced by people of all nationalities.
Bibliography
"About Us." The Scottish Register of Tartans, www.tartanregister.gov.uk/aboutUs. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.
Chalmers, Tori. "A History of the Kilt in 1 Minute." Culture Trip, 22 Sept. 2016, theculturetrip.com/europe/united-kingdom/scotland/articles/a-brief-history-of-the-kilt-in-1-minute. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.
Fiddes, Nick. "A Short History of the Scottish Kilt." CLAN, clan.com/help/kilt-ancient-origins/kilt-history-origins-development. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.
"The History of the Kilt." Lochcarron of Scotland, 11 Sept. 2017, www.lochcarron.co.uk/our-journal/the-history-of-the-kilt. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.
Johnson, Ben. "The History of Tartan." Historic UK, www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/HistoryofScotland/The-History-of-Tartan. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.
Johnson, Ben. "The Secret of a Scotsman's Sporran." Historic UK, www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK/HistoryofScotland/The-Secret-of-Scotsmans-Sporran. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.
Newsome, Matthew. "Early History of the Kilt." Albanach, 2000, albanach.org/early-history-of-the-kilt-e0c5b0101b5. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.
Weiss, Zachary. "This Kilt Designer Hasn't Worn Trousers in 16 Years." Observer, 4 May 2016, observer.com/2016/05/this-kilt-designer-hasnt-worn-trousers-in-16-years. Accessed 28 Sept. 2024.