Hisham's Palace (Khirbat al-Mafjar)

Hisham’s Palace (Khirbat al-Mafjar) is an Umayyad desert palace complex located just north of Jericho in the West Bank, Palestine. A key Islamic archaeological site, Hisham’s Palace is believed to have been built during the reign of the tenth caliph of the Umayyad dynasty, Hishām ibn Abd al-Malik, who ruled from 724 to 743 CE. The palace was once a residential estate that included a two-story square structure with an elaborate entrance, a courtyard, and various rooms and halls. Largely abandoned after it was severely damaged by an earthquake in 749 CE, Hisham’s Palace was rediscovered centuries later. Since then, the palace has earned recognition as a site of major cultural importance, particularly in relation to its historic ties to Islam. In addition, Hisham’s Palace has also emerged as an increasingly popular tourist attraction that brings visitors from around the world to the West Bank, especially since its famous 827-square-meter carpet mosaic was publicly displayed for the first time before undergoing restoration beginning in 2016.

Background

Little information exists to support a strong historical framework for Hisham’s Palace. In fact, the only known information about the palace has been ascertained through archaeological excavation. By studying the remaining ruins, archaeologists have established a few key facts about the palace’s history. It is generally agreed that construction of Hisham’s Palace began in the eighth century during the reign of Caliph Hishām ibn Abd al-Malik. It is also believed that rather than being an official residence, the palace likely served only as the caliph’s winter retreat. Work on the palace was never fully completed and eventually ceased after it was partially destroyed during an earthquake in 749 CE. While a portion of the surviving site functioned as an agricultural estate until about the mid-tenth century, Hisham’s Palace itself was ultimately abandoned.

After being lost for centuries, the site of Hisham’s Palace was first rediscovered in 1873. It was not until the 1930s and 1940s, however, that the full extent of the palace was revealed. The proper reemergence of Hisham’s Palace began when Palestinian archaeologist Dmitri Baramki started excavating a trio of dirt mounds outside the ancient city of Jericho in 1935. At first, Baramki believed the architectural remnants he discovered were part of a Byzantine church or monastery that was slowly being destroyed by locals who were raiding the site in search of building materials. Eventually, however, he concluded that the remains in question were actually those of an Islamic palace dating back to the eighth century. Under the direction of Robert W. Hamilton, head of the British Mandate for Palestine’s Department of Antiquities, Baramki and his team conducted an extensive excavation that revealed detailed mosaics and intricate stuccowork. Perhaps most importantly, Baramki also uncovered a white marble ostracon with an Arabic inscription that read “Hisham, commander of the faithful.” It was this particular discovery that allowed historians to tie the palace to Caliph Hishām ibn Abd al-Malik and establish its probable origin. Also as a result of this discovery, the site—known up to that point among locals as Khirbet al-Mafjar—was redubbed “Hisham’s Palace.”

Overview

Built during the eighth century, the design of Hisham’s Palace demonstrates the luxurious lifestyle and considerable political power of the Umayyad dynasty. Spread out over approximately 150 acres, the palace is a sprawling complex that consists of three main areas: a two-story residence, a mosque with a small courtyard, and a bath that features an audience hall. These structures are all surrounded by a protective outer wall. A forecourt with a central fountain extends outward to the east of the main site. A main gate flanked by a pair of solid buttress towers is located on the palace’s southern façade.

The main palace residence is a square building made up of a series of rooms that face inward onto a central courtyard. While the design of the building clearly suggests that it once was a residential structure, no evidence exists to indicate the specific function of many of the rooms. There are some notable exceptions, however. For example, one particular room appears to have been an oratory, or a special place of prayer. Other rooms with clear functions include a large meeting hall and a small anteroom leading to an underground pool. A throne room was located on the second floor directly above the entrance. Archaeological experts believe that the palace residence as a whole probably served as a harem, or a special chamber specifically reserved for the private use of the caliph’s family.

While the residence was a primary structure at Hisham’s Palace, the bath hall was its most elaborate. Located about 40 meters north of the main palace, the bath was intricately designed. Although the actual bathing area was somewhat small, each individual bath had an extravagant entrance and a large hall that was likely ostentatiously decorated. The bath hall is also noted for its unique vaults and domes, as well as for its stucco sculptures. Archaeologists and historians believe that the individual halls within the larger bath hall were likely used for social events that included music, dancing, and other pleasure-oriented activities.

By far the most well-known features of the bath hall—and of Hisham’s Palace at large—are its elaborate mosaic floors, which were made to look like carpets. The layout of the carpet mosaics is divided into two different panels. One is rectangular and features a geometric design. The other is arched and includes an artistic depiction of a lion attacking a group of gazelles under a large fruit-bearing tree. It is believed that this design is meant to invoke the advent of peace said to follow the triumph of Islam. Similar mosaics can also be found in the palace’s entrance hall and audience hall. For many years, the carpet mosaic at Hisham’s Palace was kept covered in sand for preservation purposes. It was uncovered permanently for the first time as part of a large-scale restoration process that began in 2016. Funded by Japan International Cooperation Agency, a protective canopy was built over the mosaic floors and the site opened to tourism in 2021. This covering allows visitors to see the ancient artwork without stepping directly on the tiles, preserving them for future generations.

Bibliography

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Liebermann, Oren. “7 Million-Piece Mosaic Uncovered in Jericho after 80 Years.” CNN, 30 Nov. 2016, www.cnn.com/travel/article/jericho-mosaic-inside-the-middle-east/index.html. Accessed 27 Nov. 2024.

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