Appliqué

Appliqué is a sewing technique by which a smaller piece of fabric is attached to a larger one to create a design. Though primarily used in quilting, appliqué is used in many projects as a form of embellishment or design. Clothes, table cloths, bags, and wall hangings can be created or enhanced with appliqué. All kinds of materials, including fabric, leather, and nylon, can be used in appliqué.

The technique of appliqué has existed for nearly 3,000 years. One of the earliest examples of appliqué was found on a banner in Egypt. Appliqué is thought to have originated in Asia, where leather was the primary material used for the technique. Symbols were often appliquéd on tents in order to indicate ownership, as well as on the clothes of soldiers. As trade between Asia and Europe began, the technique moved west, where it was primarily incorporated into clothing and quilts. The French named the technique "appliqué," after the French verb meaning "to attach."

The popularity of appliqué grew immensely in the newly-formed United States. Appliqué was utilized primarily in quilts and incorporated many symbols that immigrants knew from their home lands, as well as new symbols from the emerging country. Particular regions developed their own styles and techniques. Quilts created by Amish settlers were often created with dark, simple colors and fabrics, and depicted images from nature using intricate appliqué. In contrast, Baltimore quilt albums were created by upper-class women who used new, extravagant materials and created scenes based on daily life. Missionaries who first visited Hawaii introduced native Hawaiians to quilting. Hawaiians utilized tapa, a cloth made from bark, and created their own distinct appliqué style, usually highlighting native flowers and cultural traditions.

Today, appliqué remains a staple in quilting arts, but is also widely used in clothing and commercial design.

Techniques

There are many appliqué techniques and styles for crafters to explore. The materials required for appliqué projects vary by style or method.

Broderie perse is a method by which chintz appliqué, typically flowers or nature-themed motifs, is applied to a plain background. The term is French for "Persian embroidery." Celtic appliqué uses Celtic imagery and symbols as themes. Hawaiian appliqué generally uses only two or three colors and relies on Hawaiian motifs.

Shadow appliqué utilizes voile or organza to give elements of an appliqué a "shadowed" look. In stained-glass appliqué, appliquéd shapes are surrounded by appliqués of thin, dark material, mimicking the look of stained glass windows. in three-dimensional appliqué, objects, such as small dolls, are attached to larger pieces.

In freezer paper appliqué, patterns are copied onto freezer paper. The paper is then cut out and acts as a template for the appliqué. Reverse appliqué requires multiple layers. The pattern is cut from the top layer, allowing the fabric on the bottom to show through. Starch and press appliqué uses a starch-water combination to create the seam allowance for appliqués, which is then pressed with an iron to secure it.

Trends

No longer limited to quilts or banners, appliqué can be found on fashionable clothing, personal accessories, and items for the home. Many textile artists enjoy using appliqué as an enhancement for wall hangings or art pieces, and may even incorporate appliqué with stencils, screen prints, fabric paints, beads, embroidery, and other forms of embellishment. Many hobbyists enjoy adding appliqué embellishments or patches to clothing, bags, and other personal accessories.

Appliequé for Fun vs. Profit

Appliqué is a versatile technique that can be incorporated into any number of projects. It can be learned from books, magazines, and Internet resources such as sewing blogs and YouTube videos. In addition, sewing classes are frequently offered at craft or quilting shops, and may explain techniques in greater detail. For hobbyists, appliqué is a great way to embellish quilts, clothing, and household wares.

Many businesses use appliqué techniques, particularly those specializing in promotional materials such as banners and flags. Companies that produce work uniforms may also use appliqué in creating patches or clothing embellishments. Decorative flags for the home are also created using appliqué techniques, and small businesses creating such pieces often thrive. Designers of clothing and handbags may also utilize appliqué. The technique can be applied to both large scale and home-based businesses.

Learning More

Organizations

The Appliqué Society <http://www.theappliquesociety.org/>

Books

Boase, Petra, and Lilian Lindblom. "Appliqué: The Art of Decorating Fabric in 25 Beautiful Projects (Craft Workshop Series)." London: Anness Publishing, Ltd., 2003.

Ganderton, Lucinda. "Appliqué." New York: Crown Publishing Group, 2006.

Hargrave, Harriet. "Mastering Machine Appliqué: The Complete Guide Including Invisible Machine Appliqué, Satin Stitch, Blanket Stitch and Much More." Concord: C & T Publishing, 2002.

Pittman, Janet. "Appliqué: The Basics and Beyond: The Complete Guide to Successful Machine and Hand Techniques with Dozens of Designs to Mix and Match." Urbandale: Landauer Books, 2006.

York, Casey. The Appliqué Book: Traditional Techniques, Modern Style. C&T Publishing, 2016.