Serging

History

Serging is a type of sewing that can duplicate the finished edges of ready-made garments, allowing home-sewn clothing to look professional. Serging machines are called "sergers" or "overlockers." They are excellent for sewing knits and other stretchy fabrics, and can be used alone or in conjunction with the sewing machine to produce clothing, household items, and crafts.

While many sewing machines offer serger-type stitches, there are significant differences. Sewing machines use one thread, while sergers use from two to eight threads. Sergers cut the seam allowance while stitching, and serger stitches are stretchier, stronger, and more versatile.

Sergers were introduced to the clothing industry in the 1920s, and were used throughout the twentieth century. The first serger targeted for the home market was the Baby Lock. Designed by a team of engineers and other employees who originally tried to introduce the concept to their employer, industrial sewing machine manufacturer Tokyo Juki Industrial Co., they instead marketed the machines on their own. The first machine, the Baby Lock EF-205, appeared on the market in 1967, and in keeping with the home décor trend of the decade, it was produced in avocado green. When these lighter, smaller, and less expensive overlockers took hold, other companies entered the serger business.

Sergers were introduced in the United States during the early 1970s, and since then, many enhancements have been made. The most recent models now feature eight threads, and are capable of producing up to 58 different stitches.

Unlike a conventional sewing machine that interlocks an upper thread with a lower thread that has been wound on a bobbin, sergers use either one or two upper threads and from one to three "loopers," long, narrow metal fingers with eyes that can accommodate wide threads, including ribbons and yarns. The looper engages, or loops, the upper thread and pulls it to the edge. This creates the overlock stitch, used for seams. Loopers go over and under the fabric, but they do not penetrate the fabric like a needle.

Trimming is conducted by the action of two knives, or blades, that work like scissors except that the lower knife remains stationary.

Among the most popular serger stitches are the overlock stitch (three-thread) used for seam edges, the rolled edge stitch (two to three threads) used for rolled hems, and the decorative flatlock stitch (two to three threads).

The "cover stitch," is a top stitch that uses two or three needles and a lower looper to form parallel lines of stitches. Because it does not cut the fabric, it can be used anywhere on a garment. Separate machines for creating cover stitches and chain stitches are available for those who do not want to disengage the knife when they switch between stitches.

More sophisticated sergers provide users with the option of a five-thread safety stitch, which combines a chain stitch and a three-thread overlock stitch.

Another serger feature is the feed. Sergers move, or feed the fabric from above and below, to keep it moving between the needles. Some sergers have what is called a differential feed, in which the top feed is faster or slower than the bottom feed. Differential feeds can make it easier to serge knits and make ruffles, gathers, and lettuce edges.

Sergers can be used to fashion many crafts, household items, and clothing, but a sewing machine is needed to insert zippers, create buttonholes, stitch facings, and some other steps. Thus, most people who sew a variety of projects own both machines.

Techniques

General hints and guidelines for serging:

Always practice first when using new thread, new fabric, new stitches, and new procedures.

Before serging a seam, make sure the seam allowance is adequate.

For best results, keep an eye on the knives cutting the fabric, not the needle.

Before a spool or cone of thread runs out, to avoid having to go through the threading procedure, tie the new thread onto the end of the old spool with a square knot, then pull the thread through the threading path and cut out the knot.

Clean and oil the serger more often than a sewing machine. The owner's manual should outline a maintenance schedule.

Needles and cutting knives should be replaced regularly. Check the manual for guidelines.

Never sew over a pin. Rather than using pins, consider wash-away tape, or first baste the fabric in place.

To prevent stitches from unraveling at the ends of seams, leave a tail chain of about two to four inches or more at the beginning and end, then weave the tail back through the stitches with a tapestry needle, or use another method.

Trends

Crafts, placemats and napkins, purses, bathing suits, leggings, yoga pants, and other athletic wear continue to be popular items for serging. A glance through pattern catalogs and sewing magazines can provide an indication of the latest fashions. Many of these continue to feature decorative stitches and bead embellishments that can be added with a special serger foot.

Serging for Fun vs. Profit

Whether serging is used alone or in combination with conventional machine sewing, there are many opportunities for reaping a profit. One can earn money by sewing costumes for theatrical productions and other occasions, selling craft items at fairs and galleries, and working with interior designers to sew custom drapery, slipcovers, and other household items.

Learning More

Organizations

American Sewing Guild (ASG) <http://www.asg.org/>

Home Sewing Association >http://www.sewing.org/>

Sewing & Stitchery Expo <https://sewexpo.com/>

Books

Bednar, Nancy and Anne van der Kley. Creative Serging: Innovative Applications to Get the Most from Your Serger. Sterling, 2007.

Brown, Gail, and Pati Palmer. Sewing with Sergers: The Complete Handbook for Overlock Sewing. 3rd edition, Palmer / Pletsch, 2014.

Griffin, Mary and Susan Huxley. Serger Secrets. Rodale, 1998.

Sewing with an Overlock. Cy DeCosse, 1989. Singer sewing reference library.