Rock Climbing

History

Rock climbing is an activity in which climbers attempt to ascend very sheer, or steep (sometimes nearly vertical), rock faces. In order to make their way up the surface of the rock, climbers draw upon a combination of physical strength, skillful techniques, and specialized equipment such as ropes, carabiners, and harnesses.

The sport of rock climbing grew out of mountaineering. People throughout history have climbed mountains in the name of exploration or settlement, to carry out military maneuvers, or for religious or spiritual purposes. Mountaineering for its own sake, however, is only a little over two hundred years old. One of the first successful mountain climbs took place in the late eighteenth century, when two French adventurers claimed a reward after making their way to the peak of Mont Blanc in 1786. The activity soon caught on, becoming trendy among wealthy Europeans during the mid-nineteenth century.

Early mountain climbers tended to choose the easiest and least hazardous route to the top. Although most mountaineering trips involve at least some periods of rock climbing, the sport of rock climbing differs from mountaineering in that its purpose is not simply to reach the summit of a mountain as quickly and safely as possible. Rather, rock climbing is about developing skill, technique, and embracing a certain amount of risk.

As soon as rock climbing emerged as an endeavor distinct from mountaineering, enthusiasts in England and Germany began debating the new sport's standards of "fair means"—discussing what kinds of equipment ought to be allowed without giving the climber an unfair advantage or taking away from the true challenges of climbing. Originally, the use of equipment fixed or wedged into the rock face to assist the climber's ascent—known as "aid climbing"—was quite common. As the sport progressed, however, ascent using only physical ability, with equipment used only to protect against falls— known as "free climbing"—became the dominant form of climbing. An extreme version of the sport, known as "free soloing," uses no equipment at all, even for protection, meaning a fall is likely to result in injury or death.

As rock climbing became a more competitive, mainstream athletic activity, indoor climbing walls became more common. Today, rock climbing takes place both outdoors, on natural cliff faces, and at gyms and other sporting arenas. It is even possible for temporary rock climbing walls to be set up for special events, at offices, or in private homes.

Techniques

The two basic rock climbing techniques are "top roping" and "lead climbing." Of these, top roping is the safer approach most often used by beginning climbers. In top roping, there is an anchor placed at the top of the climb. A rope is passed through the anchor. One end of the rope is secured to the climber, and the other end is held by a second person at the bottom (or the top) of the climb, known as the belayer, because the rope is attached to his or her harness using a belay device. The belayer is there to take up the slack in the rope as the climber ascends, and to tighten the rope to catch the climber if they fall.

In lead climbing—the natural form of the sport that developed in mountaineering—the climber starts at the bottom with the rope, towing it behind them and passing it through carabiners (a type of sturdy clip) that the climber fixes to the rock at intervals using various devices known collectively as "protection." The belayer stays at the bottom and performs the same function as in top roping, except the belayer is letting out rope instead of taking it up; if the climber falls, they fall considerably farther, until they are caught by the last piece of protection. After the lead climber finishes, the belayer climbs up, removing the pieces of protection along the way as the first climber belays from the top. Lead climbing is riskier and more physically demanding than top roping.

Trends

Starting in the latter twentieth century, rock climbing has been the focus of some environmental debate, because of the concern over the physical impact the equipment used in climbing may have on natural rock faces and the general wear and tear on fragile environments caused by an onslaught of eager climbers. A "clean climbing" movement began in the 1970s; among other things, it eliminated the use of pitons, steel spikes that were driven into the rock with hammers to act as anchors. Another rock climbing trend is "bouldering," a variation on the sport that does not involve ropes and anchors and is usually done at very low heights so that falling is less dangerous.

Rock Climbing for Fun vs. Profit

As with any sport, becoming a professional rock climber requires years of training and practice. Once a dedicated climber has become extremely proficient, there are opportunities for him or her to turn their passion into a career as a competitive climber or a professional climbing guide or instructor. Certification programs are available for the climber who wishes to increase their marketability.

Learning More

Organizations

American Safe Climbing Association <http://www.safeclimbing.org/index.htm>

Access Fund <http://www.accessfund.org/>

International Federation of Sport Climbing <https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/>

USA Climbing <http://www.usaclimbing.org/>

Books

Arce, Gary. Defying Gravity. Berkeley: Wilderness Press, 1996.

Luebben, Craig. Rock Climbing: Mastering the Basic Skills. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2004.

Watts, Phillip Baxter. Rock Climbing. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics, 1996.