Beading

History

Beading is the craft of stringing beads to make jewelry, sculptures, and other items. Many beaders make their own beads from glass, polymer clay, metal clay, or other materials. Some projects may require additional beadwork techniques, including needle weaving, while others may involve other jewelry making methods.

In some beading projects, beads are glued to a hard surface rather than strung. Examples include the brightly colored masks, animals, and bowls crafted by the Huichol Indians of Mexico.

Throughout history, humans have valued beads as objects for adornment. The very first beads made from seeds, flowers, and other natural materials have not survived to the present day, but other beads made from shell, bone, clay, and animal teeth date to the Paleolithic period (50,000–10,000 BCE). Although the materials used for stringing have long disintegrated, it is assumed they were made from sinew, grasses, and other plant fibers.

Some of the world's most valuable jewelry was crafted during the Bronze Age. These pieces were made with copper and gold, and decorated with turquoise, lapis lazuli, pearls, obsidian, and other precious gemstones.

The invention of glass around 2500 BCE opened up new possibilities for less precious but equally attractive jewelry. As glass-making technology advanced and eventually spread to Europe, Venice became the world's largest producer of glass beads. These translucent gems attracted a large following around the world. They sparkled in the daylight and could be colored to produce fascinating patterns.

The Industrial Revolution brought about machines capable of forming beads that were uniform in appearance. The ability to create smaller beads gave rise to the seed bead industry in the United States, although the majority of seed beads currently come from Japan and Eastern Europe.

The first plastic beads were made in the mid-nineteenth century. Polystyrene, the most common plastic used for beads, was invented in the 1920s. The early twentieth century also brought about cultured pearls and the invention of synthetic rubies, sapphires, and diamonds.

In the 1990s the Japanese developed metal clay, made of metal power such as gold, silver, or copper mixed with an organic binder. It is shaped and then fired to harden it. Metal clay has become a very popular medium for jewelry making.

The popularity of beading comes and goes, but the current revival began near the end of the twentieth century and seems to grow every year. Beading is a rewarding craft that allows for a good deal of self-expression.

Basic tools and supplies

• Beading board
• Storage containers
• Beading thread (upholstery, silk, Silamide thread or prewaxed nylon, Nymo thread or unwaxed nylon)
• Beading needles
• Beading cord (rubber, leather, cotton, elastic)
• Beading wire (tiger tail, colored wire, gold-plated, sterling silver, stainless steel memory wire)
• Beads (seed, Delica, bugle, glass, polymer clay, metal clay, ceramic, bone, shell, wood, nuts, plastic, metal, semiprecious gemstone, pearls, crystal, vermeil, plated, cloisonné, pewter, pearls, acrylic)
• Pliers (chain-nosed, round-nose, and crimping)
• Wire cutters
• Jewelry findings (pin backs, head pins, jump rings, clasps, earring backs, posts, ear wires, hoops, clips, bead tips, crimp beads)
• Alligator clips
• Charms, spacers
• Glue (jewelry, super, craft, and/or hot glue gun)
• Scissors
• Color wheel
• Magnifying glass

Supplies for making polymer clay beads

• Polymer clay
• Rolling pin or other roller
• Baking pan
• Piercing tools
• Craft knife
• Wire
• Ruler
• Oven
• Optional: pasta machine, clay extruder, copper leaf, liquid metal leaf, metallic powders, brushes, colored pencils

Supplies for French beading

• Wire (painted or electroplated wire in gauges ranging from 14 to 28, floral paddle wire)
• Pliers (long nose, locking, needle nose)
• Floral tape
• Wire cutters

Supplies for Huichol bead gluing technique

• Hard surface to be beaded, such as a gourd, papier-mâché tray, or Styrofoam ball
• Sticky base to hold the beads, either beeswax and pine resin mixture (traditional Huichol), craft glue and brush, or polymer clay (contemporary)
• Tweezers
• Finishing glaze

Techniques

Steps for making a bead necklace

• Select a desired length. Chokers are usually 14 to 16 inches, short (princess) necklaces range from 17 to 19 inches, and long necklaces that can be wrapped around a few times range from 18 to 34 inches.
• Lay out beads on a beading board as desired for final arrangement. Although designs may differ, when making a necklace the largest beads are usually placed in the center.
• The materials, colors, shapes, and sizes of the beads should all work together to create an attractive piece of jewelry.
• Select a suitable thread, cord, or string. The color should coordinate with beads if it will show (some cords may be knotted in between beads as part of the design). Cut length about 8 inches longer than needed.
• String the beads.
• Place two crimp beads on one end followed by a clasp.
• Thread string in the opposite direction back through the crimp beads and slide all three pieces close to the beads, leaving at least one inch of thread. Use crimping pliers to squeeze the crimp beads until tight. Give a gentle tug at the end to make sure the crimps are holding. Add a bit of adhesive if desired.
• Thread the end through the beads so that it doesn't show.
• Holding onto the end so that the beads don't fall off, check again to make sure the length is correct.
• Lay out the beads on the beading board. Check spacing and tension. Repeat crimping procedure at the other end. Hide thread.
• Try on necklace. Check for comfort.

Trends

Colorful lampworked (flameworked) and fused glass (dichroic) beads are quite popular, with many beaders trying their hands at these techniques. Wire beads and metal clay decorations are popular, as is beading with charms, Swarovski crystal beads, and organic beads (bone, shell, wood, and other materials). The trend toward multimedia crafts has inspired the addition of bead embellishments to knitting, crocheting, sewing, weaving, basketry, and embroidery projects.

Beading for Fun vs. Profit

Beading has become such a popular activity that competition in the marketplace can be strong. However, because the initial investment is low and many pieces of jewelry can be created with minimal expense, a talented beader may enjoy a reasonably high profit margin.

Other professional opportunities for beaders include selling handmade beads in the wholesale market, teaching classes, and writing books that feature original creations.

Learning More

Organizations

Beadesigner International <https://www.beadesignerintl.org/>

International Society of Glass Beadmakers <http://www.isgb.org/>

National Polymer Clay Guild <http://www.npcg.org/>

Precious Metal Clay Guild <http://www.pmcguild.com/>

Books

Beadstyle Magazine. Easy Beading: Fast, Fashionable, Fun. Milwaukee: Kalmbach Pub., 2004.

Dubin, Lois Sherr. The History of Beads: From 100,000 B.C. to the Present. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 2009.

Korach, Alice. Chic and Easy Beading. Milwaukee: Kalmbach Pub., 2004.

Gerlach, Julia. Get Started Beading: Stringing, Wirework, Stitching. Waukesha, WI: Kalmbach Press, 2005.