Leatherworking
Leatherworking is the craft of decorating and manipulating leather, a material that has been utilized by humans for over 7,000 years for various purposes, including clothing, armor, and storage. The art encompasses a variety of techniques such as stamping, incising, carving, and appliqué, each allowing artisans to create distinctive designs and functional items. Different types of leather, derived from various animals, are suited for specific projects; thicker hides are often used for durability, while softer skins may be chosen for more delicate applications.
The practice of leatherworking spans cultures, with historical examples found among ancient Northern European peoples, American Indians, and African tribes. Modern trends have seen leatherworking integrated into fashion, with items like jackets, belts, and footwear showcasing intricate designs. While some engage in leatherworking as a profitable business, others pursue it as a fulfilling hobby, often creating personalized gifts. However, the craft faces ethical considerations, particularly from animal rights advocates, which has led to ongoing discussions about its impact on contemporary society. Overall, leatherworking remains a respected skill with a rich history and cultural significance.
Leatherworking
History
Humans have turned animal hides into leather for over 7,000 years. Since its discovery, leather has been used for many purposes including shelter, clothing, armor, bottling, bookbinding, shoemaking, saddling, and luggage.
Leatherworking, the decorating or "tooling" of leather, has been practiced for as long as leather has been used. Examples of this craft have been found through the world, and include objects from ancient Northern European peoples, American Indians, and African tribes.
Many leatherworking techniques have been introduced through the years. Stamping, in which the leather is imprinted with images and designs using iron presses and hammers, is one of the most common leatherworking techniques.
There are several methods for stamping. Cold stamping involves hammering a design into the leather using unheated irons. Blind stamping is the use of heated irons, which slightly burn the image into the surface. Gold stamping is the practice of impressing leaves of gold, silver, or tin into the leather.
Other leatherworking techniques include incising, in which a design is cut into the leather using a variety of knives; carving, in which the surface of the leather is undercut from the back or "flesh" of the leather; cutout, in which designs are made by punching holes; molding, in which the background of the image is imprinted in order to make the surface stand out; and sgraffio, or scraping, in which the surface of the leather is lightly scraped.
Appliqué, the practice of combining several art media, is also common in leatherworking. Papier-mâché, rivets, plaster, paint, and beads are all used in leather appliqué. This technique was commonly used on leather shields, armor, and helmets during the medieval period.
Many leather goods and patterns, especially those produced by American Indians, feature embroidered designs. Embroidery is simply the stitching of a design, often in a variety of colors, onto the face of the leather.
Tips & Techniques
High quality leather is preferable when making goods such as clothing and shoes, but if the tooling will be strictly artistic, there is no reason to buy expensive hides.
There are many beginner's leatherworking kits, but these are often filled with specialized tools that will not be useful to everybody, so experienced leatherworkers often recommend that beginners should instead determine what kinds of projects they want to do and buy tools based on that.
When purchasing leather, it is important to note the weight of the hide. Retailers usually mark the thickness of the leather on the flesh side, so that customers do not need to measure.
Different leatherworking projects require specific kinds of leather. Hides, which are the leather cuts from large animals, are used for their durability and thickness. For projects requiring softer leather, kips, the cuts from small cattle and calves, can be purchased. The smallest and softest cuts of leather come from animals such as rabbits, sheep, and goats. These cuts are known as skins.
Trends
In past decades, leatherwork has seen a number of trends. Since the 1950s, leather jackets have become highly popular. Many jackets bear leather worked patterns or designs. Similarly, denim jackets, which rose in popularity in the 1960s and 1970s, often feature examples of leather appliqué. Modern fashionable items such as belts and footwear commonly feature leatherwork such as stitching, rivets, and embroidery.
Animal rights activists, including organizations such as People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), have denounced leather as inhumane. However, the popularity of leather and the craft of leatherworking are generally unaffected, as a great amount of footwear, furniture, luggage, and clothing are still made from animal hides and skins.
Leatherworking for Fun vs. Profit
It is possible to make a profit from selling leather worked goods. Many people do so by selling at private stores, craft fairs, or open market bazaars. Leather goods are also popular in some specialized venues, such as Renaissance fairs. Many artists also sell their work online, exclusively or in addition to selling it in other places.
However, many more people simply enjoy the hobby of tooling leather. Leatherworking does not necessarily have to be an expensive hobby, so it is possible to engage in it with a purely artistic interest. Those who become skilled at leatherworking may enjoy giving leather patterns or adorned goods as gifts.
Learning More
Organizations
The International Foundation of Leather Guilds <http://www.ifolg.net/index.html>.
Books
Felix, Rebecca. Cool Leatherworking Projects: Fun & Creative Workshop Activities. Checkerboard Library, 2017.
Groneman, Chris H. "Leather Tooling and Carving." Mineola, NY: Dover Publications, 1974.
Hills, Pat and Joan Wiener. "The Leathercraft Book." New York: Random House, 1973.
Maguire, Mary. "Craft Workshop: Leatherwork." London: Southwater Publishing, 2005.
Michael, Valerie. "The Leatherworking Handbook: A Practical Illustrated Sourcebook of Techniques and Projects." New York: Sterling Publishing, 1993.
West, Geoffrey. "Leatherwork: A Manual of Techniques." Wiltshire, England: Crowood Press, 2005.