Beadwork

History

Beadwork is distinguished from beading, also known as bead stringing, in that it employs needlecrafts, including weaving, sewing, embroidery, and crochet, to produce items that are either embellished with or formed entirely of beads. The most popular beads used in the craft are seed beads.

The earliest examples of beadwork date to approximately 4600 BCE, making beadwork a much younger craft than beading, which is associated with the Paleolithic period (50,000–10,000 BCE). Ancient beadwork artifacts include Egyptian headdresses and clothing embellished with beads made from semiprecious gemstones and "faience," extremely small glass-like discs (distinct from European faience, which is tin-glazed earthenware).

The origin of the first glass seed beads is unknown, although the Egyptians and other Mesopotamian cultures are credited with discovering and working glass around 3000 BCE. Some historians maintain that India was the first country to develop a technique for making glass seed beads, in approximately 400 BCE. Called "Indo-Pacific" beads, these small, round beads were traded throughout the world, and eventually other countries began to manufacture them.

Beadwork became popular in Europe among the wealthy during the fifteenth century, and beaded robes and gowns remained a symbol of prestige for many decades. As the availability of beads increased and more and more women learned the craft, beadwork became more commonplace.

The Victorian era (1837–1901) was the heyday for beadwork. Gloves, parasols, lampshades, and beaded crochet purses were especially popular. Designs included landscapes, flowers, and peacocks. Fringe was common, as was the use of the tiniest seed beads and steel beads. Bead netting also gained in popularity throughout the nineteenth century. Based on an ancient method of producing netting, this simple lace stitch was used to encase clothing and purses, and to create jewelry, decorative collars, and other items.

The Industrial Revolution introduced machines capable of forming beads that were uniform in appearance. The ability to create smaller beads gave rise to the seed bead industry in the United States, although the majority of seed beads used in modern times are made in Japan and the Czech Republic.

While the craft was developing in Europe and other Western cultures, beadwork also spread around the world. Some of the most interesting patterns originated among the indigenous peoples of South America, Africa, and the South Pacific. Once the Native Americans were introduced to seed beads in the eighteenth century, they began incorporating them into their original beadwork; previously, beads of materials such as shell, bone, stone, and seeds were used. Contemporary beaders emulate many of these traditional designs.

Beadwork experienced periodic revivals throughout the twentieth century and into the twenty-first. From weaving bookmarks on beading looms to embroidering expressive tapestries or crocheting a beaded edging for a sweater, beadwork offers many opportunities to experience an ancient craft.

Basic beadwork supplies

• Beads (seed, glass, polymer clay, PMC, ceramic, bone, shell, wood, nuts, plastic, metal, semiprecious gemstone, pearls, Swarovski crystal, vermeil, metal, cloisonné, pewter)
• Other decorations, such as sequins, charms, cabochons, shisha mirrors, rhinestones
• Patterns
• Bead tray
• Containers
• Small dishes or saucers
• Needles (beading in sizes #10-16, twisted wire needles in sizes #8-12, big-eye needles)

Thread

• Scissors
• Bead tip cement, other glue
• Good light source
• Magnifying glass

Additional and specific supplies for needle weaving (beadweaving)

• Beading needles (sizes #10–13)
• Seed beads
• Thread (bonded nylon, such as Nymo or Silamide brands, or silk cord in color that matches or coordinates with beads)

Additional supplies for specific projects

Additional supplies for bead embroidery

• Embroidery needles
• Thread (mercerized cotton, cotton embroidery floss, silk, or cotton-polyester hand-quilting thread in color that matches or coordinates with beads)
• Embroidery hoop or stretch frame
• Foundation fabric (velvet, linen, denim, leather, suede)
• Backing paper or interfacing
• Iron for iron-on patterns, transfer pencils, permanent markers
• Optional: needle threader, sizing, beeswax or other thread conditioner

Additional supplies for bead card

• Tracing paper, carbon paper, pen or pencil
• Embroidery needles
• Quilting needles
• Thread (mercerized cotton or nylon, embroidery floss)
• Fusible webbing
• Medium-weight paper or paper items (greeting cards, books, especially handmade books and journals)

Supplies for loom projects

• Pattern

• Beading loom

• Glue

• Seed beads

• Thread

• Beading needles

Techniques

Hints and suggestions for beadwork

• Most projects use seed beads in sizes 10 to 13 and needles in sizes 10 and 12.
• The bead's hole size will determine the number of times a thread can be woven in and out. Many projects require at least two or three weavings. A #11 seed bead will require a #12 or smaller needle, although a #10 needle, which is easier to thread, will work when there are just a few weavings.
• In addition to matching the right needle with beads, needles also have to be matched to the type of foundation being used.
• While many beading projects are easier when using thread that has been rubbed with beeswax, this is not recommended when beading on fabric. However, if there is a problem threading a needle, a coating of beeswax applied just to the end may help.
• Maintaining the right tension in any project is important. Beadwork should not be too tight or too loose.
• All thread ends should be woven back through beads so they are hidden. This also provides extra strength.
• Select beads carefully. Some beads that have been dyed may fade and possibly rub off on fabric. Some painted beads can chip or the finish can rub off if used in projects that will see a lot of wear.

Trends

Many beaders look to the past for inspiration. Victorian and art deco beaded jewelry, purses, and household decorations are popular. Teneriffe bead embroidery, based on an old lace-making technique, has also gained a following.

Others look to indigenous cultures around the world for inspiration. Native American cultures, known primarily for their bead loom patterns, are especially popular. Beaded baskets represent one of the newest sculptural basketry trends. Many beaders also enjoy decorating everyday items, such as sneakers, backpacks, and picture frames.

Beadwork for Fun vs. Profit

Because beadwork can be so time consuming, it may be difficult to build up the inventory necessary to sell at craft shows and other outlets. It may also be challenging to obtain adequate reimbursement for these labor-intensive projects. Small projects, such as greeting cards, earrings, and appliqués, may be better suited for sale. Some established bead artists keep their original beadwork and sell prints of the finished work. However, if beadwork is original and engaging, a crafter should be able to find a market and a make a fair profit.

Other commercial and professional opportunities include custom beadwork for bridal gowns and other special occasions, teaching classes, and writing books that feature original designs.

Bibliography

Clarke, Amy C., and Robin Atkins. Beaded Embellishment: Techniques & Designs for Embroidering on Cloth. Interweave Press, 2002.

Crabtree, Caroline, and Pam Stallebrass. Beadwork: A World Guide. 2002. Thames & Hudson, 2009.

Dubin, Lois Sherr. The History of Beads: From 100,000 BC to the Present. Rev. and expanded ed., Abrams, 2009.

Hector, Valerie. The Art of Beadwork: Historic Inspiration, Contemporary Design. Watson-Guptill Publications, 2005.

Davis, Jane. The Complete Guide to Beading Techniques. Krause Publications, 2001.

Sutton, Scott. Beadwork Techniques of the Native Americans. Crazy Cow Trading Post, 2008.