Jewelry Making

History

Contemporary jewelry makers can choose from a wide variety of materials and techniques, which allows the craft to be accessible to most ages, abilities, and budgets. Many jewelry makers form artistic pieces from scratch, fabricating silver findings and chains, enameling copper pendants, or cutting and polishing sapphire and other gemstones into dazzling cabochons.

Other jewelry makers select ready-made components, which allow for quicker assembly and less formal training. From ruby toe rings to cloisonné fibulas, the craft allows for much personal expression and can be rewarding in many other ways.

Humans throughout history have adorned their bodies with jewelry. The very first pieces made from seeds, flowers, and other natural materials have not survived, but necklaces made with beads of shell, bone, clay, and animal teeth date to the Paleolithic period (50,000-10,000 BCE).

Since the Bronze Age, copper and gold, along with turquoise, lapis lazuli, obsidian, pearls, and other precious gemstones, have comprised some of the world's most valuable jewelry.

The invention of glass about 2500 BCE opened up new possibilities for less expensive but equally attractive jewelry. Additional experimentation led to the technique of enameling, or fusing glass to metal to create colorful beads and pendants.

Historically, jewelry has frequently represented a person's rank in society. In some cultures, nobility or priests of high standing were the only ones allowed to wear gold and silver. In other cultures, certain pieces were closely tied to religious rituals or major celebrations. Jewelry made with feathers, snakeskin, plant roots, coconut shells, and cowrie shells played a significant spiritual role in many African cultures.

Jewelry guilds were among the first craft guilds in Europe. Most jewelry continued to be handmade even throughout the Industrial Revolution.

Perhaps the greatest impact on jewelry making occurred in the early twentieth century, with the invention of synthetic rubies, sapphires, diamonds, and cultured pearls. After World War II, the invention of the chain-making machine and the die-cast process impacted the industry as well, expanding the production of inexpensive fashion jewelry.

Jewelry making became an established fine art option in many academic programs during the twentieth century. Many of these graduates lean toward the production of "high end" jewelry for the commercial marketplace.

Basic supplies for jewelry assembly

• Containers
• Beading board
• Pliers (round-nose, chainnose, and crimping)
• Wire cutters (flush cutters)
• Jewelry file
• Jewelry findings (pin backs, head pins, jump rings, clasps, earring backs, posts, ear wires, hoops, clips, bead tips, crimp beads)
• Beads, charms, pendants, spacers, etc.
• Beading threads, cords, and wires
• Beading needles
• Alligator clips
• Glue (jewelry, super, craft, and/or hot glue gun)
• Scissors
• Color wheel
• Magnifying glass

Additional equipment and supplies for metalsmithing, goldsmithing, silversmithing

• Workbench
• Drill press
• Rolling mill
• Polishing machine

Jig saw

Shears

Saws

Mallet

Mandrel

• Calipers

Anvil

Hammers

• Steel block
• Bench pin

Drills

• Sandpaper, steel wool
• Epoxy glue
• Soldering unit
• Etching supplies
• Ring and bracelet mandrels
• Safety equipment

Patinas

• Acrylics
• Lacquers
• Precious metals (gold, silver, platinum)
• Base metals (brass, copper, aluminum, titanium, bronze, nickel silver)
• Gems (ruby, emerald, diamond, jade, turquoise, coral, pearl)

Additional supplies and equipment for enameling

Kiln

Enamel

Trivets

• Mortar & pestle
• Containers
• Gum tragacanth powder
• Finishing supplies

Additional supplies for glass beads (lampworking)

• Propane torch
• Heatproof workbench

Clamp

• Glass rods in assorted colors
• Bead release
• Graphite pad
• Vermiculite or annealing blanket
• Graphite marver
• Didymium glasses
• Optional: shaping tools, pin vice, paddle, molds and more

Additional supplies for polymer clay jewelry

• Polymer clay
• Rolling pin
• Baking pan
• Piercing tools
• Craft knife

Wire

Ruler

Oven

• Optional: clay extruder, pasta machine, copper leaf, liquid metal leaf, metallic powders, brushes, and colored pencils

Additional materials for embossed jewelry

• Rubber stamps
• Stamp pads
• Embossing powder
• Embossing tool

Drill

• Surfaces to be embossed, including wood or paper

Additional supplies for paper jewelry

• Decorative papers
• Pencil and other cylindrical objects
• Paper cutter
• Cutting mat
• Craft knives
• Metal ruler

Glue

Tape

• Paint and drawing supplies (acrylics, watercolors, colored pencils, ink pens, crayons, pastels, markers)

Sealers

• Decorative punches

Techniques

Safety precautions are imperative when glassworking, metalsmithing, and enameling. Dangerous fumes may require the use of a mask and adequate ventilation. Machinery and tools that produce an open flame, or cause flying sparks or pieces of metal, will require the use of goggles. Although gloves can impede working with small tools and materials, extra precaution should be taken to avoid burns, scratches, adhesive irritation, and other damage to the skin.

Some people are allergic to nickel, which is frequently mixed with gold, silver, and inexpensive metals for jewelry. To avoid provoking an allergic reaction, consider using other materials, including pure metals, surgical stainless steel, leather, paper, fabric, and polymer clay.

Whether one works with precious metals and gemstones or inexpensive materials, selecting the proper attachment method and adhesive will save frustration later on. Metals may be soldered, wires may be twisted, paper will usually be glued, gemstones may be epoxied, and crimp beads will be squeezed with pliers (crimped).

Another important consideration is the selection of the proper weight chain, thread, or other material to which gemstones, pendants, beads, and other jewelry decorations will be attached. It is best to overestimate the final weight than underestimate and have a necklace fall apart.

Trends

Many hobbyists continue to prefer beading (bead stringing) to more complicated and time-consuming methods for creating jewelry. However, making one's own beads is popular, with colorful lampworked (flameworked) glass, fused glass (dichroic), and wire beads currently in vogue.

The trend toward multimedia crafts is also evident in jewelry making. Hobbyists may fashion jewelry with felted pieces that were originally knitted or crocheted, or feature an embossed pendant made of wood or metal along with handmade polymer clay beads. Metal chaining and crafting with wire are popular, as is the use of the relatively new compound Precious Metal Clay (PMC). Use of found objects and "upcycling" of objects that would otherwise be discarded have also become popular.

Jewelry Making for Fun vs. Profit

Jewelry making can be an expensive craft for a beginner or casual hobbyist, but it can turn into a lucrative business. While costume jewelry rarely increases in value and is typically purchased as a fashion statement, prices are within most budgets. On the other hand are more expensive items made from precious metals and gemstones, which are typically considered both fashion items and investments. In either case, jewelry that is fashionable and demonstrates both artistry and technical expertise is likely to find a market. In the twenty-first century, many independent jewelry-makers sell their creations primarily through the internet; some also take commissions for custom work in this way.

In addition to selling jewelry, handmade beads, pendants, charms, findings, cabochons, and other items can be sold in both retail and wholesale markets. Additional professional opportunities for jewelry makers include custom design work (especially wedding bands), teaching courses, and employment in the jewelry industry.

Learning More

Organizations

International Society of Glass Beadmakers <http://www.isgb.org/>

The Enamelist Society <http://www.enamelistsociety.org/>

Society of North American Goldsmiths <http://www.snagmetalsmith.org>

Books

Codina, Carles. The New Jewelry: Contemporary Materials and Techniques. New York: Lark, 2005.

Dismore, Heather. Jewelry Making and Beading for Dummies. 2nd ed., John Wiley & Sons, 2013.

Gollberg, Joanna. The Art and Craft of Making Jewelry. New York: Lark, 2006.

McCreight, Tim. Jewelry: Fundamentals of Metalsmithing. Portland, ME: Brynmorgen Press, 1997.

Walker, Ted. Basic Jewelry Making: All the Skills and Tools You Need to Get Started. Harrisburg: Stackpole Books, 2006.